Our first few days in Romania have proven to be incredibly eye-opening. After crossing the border from Hungary into Romania, the differences were immediate and startling – new money and a new language of course, we’ve gotten used to that by now. What really surprised us was how outwardly friendly everyone is here. As we ride through little villages and towns, we are cheered on by nearly everyone that we ride past. Our days are full of waves, high-fives, and smiles.
Perhaps the Romanian people are simply Europe’s friendliest citizens, or perhaps they recognize that when they see riders, they realize what a daunting task it is to cycle through their mountainous country. We’ve endured some intense climbs, some nasty weather, numerous flat tires, and a few bad falls. These hurdles, however, appear miniscule in comparison to those that await us in the next few days. Luckily, we have the Romanian people as our cheerleaders.
The Carpathian Mountains may not be the Himalayas but nonetheless they present formidable obstacles to even the most experienced cyclist. Our group of daring riders will soon conquer the high peaks of the Transylvanian Alps by carefully navigating the hairpin turns, steep ascents, and sharp descents, while simultaneously striving to maintain a safe distance from the cyclists’ most dangerous obstacle, our most feared predator -- the automobile.
For now, we’re in the city of Alba Iulia greasing up our gears for the upcoming
train d’enfer. It’s now time to tighten our brakes, check the tread on our tires, practice yoga, and to say our prayers, because the next five cycling days that lead us to Bucharest will surely test our endurance and determination as we run the gauntlet.
- Josh Jones
After leaving France, our team of riders have hardly left Germany's many bicycle paths. These cycleways offer a welcome reprieve from the challenges of sharing the road with cars and trucks that fly past at speeds far greater than ours. These paths offer a new sort of challenge -- the paths are often very busy and packed with other riders, pedestrians, swarms of insects, mud, and gravel. At least once, the rough gravel has caused a rider to fall off of their bike and bite the dust. In spite of the hazards, each and every day along our route has been wonderful.
Our route largely follows the beautiful Danube River that begins in the town of Donaueschingen and flows eastward from a natural spring called the Donauquelle. We follow the designated paths that correspond to this river all the way to Bratislava, Slovakia; however, the ride from Eggelstetten to Kipfenberg and on to Regensburg changed things up a little bit when we instead followed the Altmühltal cycle path that follows the flow of the river of the same name. This allowed us to enjoy a number of Germany's beautiful forests, small villages, farms, and even the occasional flea market.
We have been fortunate to have had incredibly beautiful weather along the way. The crisp, clean air and bright sunlight have made each day a real joy. In fact, we've had to leave camp in a downpour only once -- and the rain cleared up before noon. Let's hope that we continue to be so lucky on our journey east.
The great meals that Hatice and Miles provide offer the perfect incentive for us riders to make it to lunch and dinner. Adam, Mark, and Paul from Nova Scotia, whom we collectively call the "Jackrabbits" because they leave in the morning at lightning speeds to make it back to camp early. What's the rush guys? Maybe they're just hungry and are eagerly awaiting the next meal. The rest of us tend to ride together, and we also tend to make frequent stops. In the morning we scout out a nice bakery or café for a cup of coffee or hot chocolate and a little snack. In the afternoon we often make another stop. This time it's for something cooler, like an ice cream cone or a tall glass of beer.
The time that we spend together when we aren't riding has been just as enjoyable. We spend lots of time at camp getting to know one another a little better by telling stories, the occasional joke, and talking about the people that we miss back home. Besides the time that we spend on our bikes, the best part of every day is the chance to explore the new places that the tour brings us. Now we're enjoying a well deserved rest day in Regensburg before we head back to the trail for five more days until we reach our next chance to sleep in a warm and comfortable bed in beautiful Vienna.
It has definitely been an easier trip for me the second time around; not worrying about getting lost and knowing what to expect certainly makes it much easier to plan for what is coming.
Feeding 50 people from a campsite is always challenging though, regardless. Whether it is standing over a stove in the hot sun, or trying to source out commodities that people in the group have become accustomed to and which simply aren’t available in each country we pass through. It makes it all worth it to see the smiles and get that handful of ‘thank you’s’ at the end of the day.
So here we are 2 days from the finish and I’m trying to figure out what to make for dinner tomorrow night as some sort of grand finale. Maybe a buffet, or a spit-roasted lamb, I think there is a fish-monger up the street…I should probably get back to work. Til then.
-Jonathan Shepheard
It has definitely been an easier trip for me the second time around; not worrying about getting lost and knowing what to expect certainly makes it much easier to plan for what is coming.
Feeding 50 people from a campsite is always challenging though, regardless. Whether it is standing over a stove in the hot sun, or trying to source out commodities that people in the group have become accustomed to and which simply aren't available in each country we pass through. It makes it all worth it to see the smiles and get that handful of 'thank you's' at the end of the day.
So here we are 2 days from the finish and I'm trying to figure out what to make for dinner tomorrow night as some sort of grand finale. Maybe a buffet, or a spit-roasted lamb, I think there is a fish-monger up the street...I should probably get back to work. Til then.
Jonathan Shepheard
Apres avoir chante dernierement les louanges de l Allemagne et de l Autriche, je vais essayer de vous rendre compte de la situation cycliste dans les ex pays de l Est. En quittant Vienne, nous sommes brievement passes en Slovaquie, pour arriver en Hongrie. Ce pays est en pleine reconstruction et il agreable de voir que les pistes cyclables sont aménagées en même temps que les routes sont refaites. En Roumanie la situation est bien différente, la voiture est reine. Les cyclistes doivent faire preuve d’une vigilance accrue en ville et sur les grandes routes. Il en est de même en Bulgarie. Mais la situation devrait changer rapidement, le coût du carburant ne cesse d’augmenter, le nombre trajets non-impératifs va sûrement diminuer et le vélo va devenir un mode de locomotion économique (ce qui semble déjà être le cas en campagne). Le porte-monnaie devient le meilleur soutien de l’écologie… dommage que ce soit les bas-salaires qui soient contraint à y contribuer.
Remarque : en attendant l’administration américaine repousse sine die toutes décisions concernant les gaz à effets de serre… dans les pays riches, l’écologie peut attendre.”
- Olivier Thudor
Apres avoir chante dernierement les louanges de l Allemagne et de l Autriche, je vais essayer de vous rendre compte de la situation cycliste dans les ex pays de l Est. En quittant Vienne, nous sommes brievement passes en Slovaquie, pour arriver en Hongrie. Ce pays est en pleine reconstruction et il agreable de voir que les pistes cyclables sont aménagées en même temps que les routes sont refaites. En Roumanie la situation est bien différente, la voiture est reine. Les cyclistes doivent faire preuve d’une vigilance accrue en ville et sur les grandes routes. Il en est de même en Bulgarie. Mais la situation devrait changer rapidement, le coût du carburant ne cesse d’augmenter, le nombre trajets non-impératifs va sûrement diminuer et le vélo va devenir un mode de locomotion économique (ce qui semble déjà être le cas en campagne). Le porte-monnaie devient le meilleur soutien de l’écologie… dommage que ce soit les bas-salaires qui soient contraint à y contribuer.
Remarque : en attendant l’administration américaine repousse sine die toutes décisions concernant les gaz à effets de serre… dans les pays riches, l’écologie peut attendre."
- Olivier Thudor
Nous voici donc depuis 3 jours en Roumanie et ce pays nous a deja fait forte impression. En effet, c est le premier pays reellement depaysant depuis le debut du tour. Les paysages sont vallones,on peut y observer une vie agricole - a l ancienne -, le foin est coupe a la faux et empile en mottes a l aide de fourches en bois. On croise des caleches tirées par deux chevaux, portant une montagne de foin, avec á l’avant, une petite mamie avec un fichu sur la tete, et son mari, tous deux fierement assis… Plus surprenant encore, est quand cette meme dame, sort son téléphone portable de la poche de son tablier ! En effet, la Roumanie semble etre pleine de contrastes : des charettes et des gros 4×4, des vieilles Dacia et la fameuse nouvelle Logan, des routes tapissées de nids de poules et des supéres voies rapides fraichement goudronées…
Autre surprise : nous étions tous inquiets de la présence de chiens errant et donc la plupart d’entre nous ont conscienceusement été se faire vacciné contre la rage! En fait, on croise plus d’oies et de vaches sur la route que de chiens, et ceux-ci semblent plus effrayés que nous !
Enfin, nous voici en repos dans la petite ville de Baile Herculane, station thermale, avec des sources sulfurées (ca sent un peu bizarre…). Cette ville propose donc hotels, locations, piscines, spas, massages… (principalement pour des touristes locaux) et tout cela dans un décor magnifique, au milieu des montagnes !
J’ai donc hate de reprendre la route demain… peut-etre de nouvelles découvertes en perspective !
–Amandine
Nous voici donc depuis 3 jours en Roumanie et ce pays nous a deja fait forte impression. En effet, c est le premier pays reellement depaysant depuis le debut du tour. Les paysages sont vallones,on peut y observer une vie agricole - a l ancienne -, le foin est coupe a la faux et empile en mottes a l aide de fourches en bois. On croise des caleches tirées par deux chevaux, portant une montagne de foin, avec á l'avant, une petite mamie avec un fichu sur la tete, et son mari, tous deux fierement assis... Plus surprenant encore, est quand cette meme dame, sort son téléphone portable de la poche de son tablier ! En effet, la Roumanie semble etre pleine de contrastes : des charettes et des gros 4x4, des vieilles Dacia et la fameuse nouvelle Logan, des routes tapissées de nids de poules et des supéres voies rapides fraichement goudronées...
Autre surprise : nous étions tous inquiets de la présence de chiens errant et donc la plupart d'entre nous ont conscienceusement été se faire vacciné contre la rage! En fait, on croise plus d'oies et de vaches sur la route que de chiens, et ceux-ci semblent plus effrayés que nous !
Enfin, nous voici en repos dans la petite ville de Baile Herculane, station thermale, avec des sources sulfurées (ca sent un peu bizarre...). Cette ville propose donc hotels, locations, piscines, spas, massages... (principalement pour des touristes locaux) et tout cela dans un décor magnifique, au milieu des montagnes !
J'ai donc hate de reprendre la route demain... peut-etre de nouvelles découvertes en perspective !
--
Amandine
Since leaving Paris over three weeks ago, we are already at the half way point of the trip.
The weather was more like winter as we rode through France, with the longest distance day to date of 130km giving us all the chance to see forest and mountain scenery through a veil of light rain, heavy rain and monsoon downpour. However, we had the luxury of being able to use the school hall to sleep in rather than under canvass. I think we were all grateful to the tour organisers and the mayor of Xertigny for that. The mood in camp was as low as the cloud at that point and the climb to the top of the Col de la Schlucht rewarded us with nothing more than 50m of visibility in the mist rather than the splendid Munster valley.
As one local told us, it always rains on the Xertigny side but the Munster side is always sunny. Turns out he was right, and as we crossed the border into Germany the sun started to shine and the mood in camp also brightened with the weather. From Freiburg, we had a short but climbing ride to see the source of the Danube, before following it using the cycle path through Ulm, Regensburg and Passau in Germany and then on through Linz and Vienna in Austria.
This is the ‘pastry route’ as the cycle trail follows the river but regularly diverts into the many villages along its banks. Whether you ride on the north or south side, there are plenty of chances to stop for a coffee and home baked cake or pastry at a Konditorei or Backerei. These also serve the coffee to go with whatever you eventually choose to eat, but 10 riders in a shop designed for two or three as well as their regular customers causes a bit of hilarity, and more congestion as they want to know why we are riding to Istanbul by bike. With a bit of knowledge of the language you can hear that the story you have told one being relayed to the others. This happened the day we missed the lunch stop by taking a short cut and taking a dinner of fresh asparagus at the only eating house in the village. The lady who was actually preparing the asparagus as we went in relayed our story to the locals having their lunchtime beer. In those places you are a star for those few minutes you are there.
As the days progress the joking amongst the group gets more and more and that relaxes any tiredness from the day’s ride. The evening meal is usually eaten with us sitting around a virtual camp fire which helps with the interaction between us all.
Tomorrow, we ride into Budapest to enjoy a rest day and also reach the half way point of the trip to Istanbul. No doubt this part of the trip will seem to go faster than getting here, and it will be memories we take with us rather than as much water as we can get onto bike frame and into jersey pockets.
- Stewart Sinclair
Since leaving Paris over three weeks ago, we are already at the half way point of the trip.
The weather was more like winter as we rode through France, with the longest distance day to date of 130km giving us all the chance to see forest and mountain scenery through a veil of light rain, heavy rain and monsoon downpour. However, we had the luxury of being able to use the school hall to sleep in rather than under canvass. I think we were all grateful to the tour organisers and the mayor of Xertigny for that. The mood in camp was as low as the cloud at that point and the climb to the top of the Col de la Schlucht rewarded us with nothing more than 50m of visibility in the mist rather than the splendid Munster valley.
As one local told us, it always rains on the Xertigny side but the Munster side is always sunny. Turns out he was right, and as we crossed the border into Germany the sun started to shine and the mood in camp also brightened with the weather. From Freiburg, we had a short but climbing ride to see the source of the Danube, before following it using the cycle path through Ulm, Regensburg and Passau in Germany and then on through Linz and Vienna in Austria.
This is the ‘pastry route’ as the cycle trail follows the river but regularly diverts into the many villages along its banks. Whether you ride on the north or south side, there are plenty of chances to stop for a coffee and home baked cake or pastry at a Konditorei or Backerei. These also serve the coffee to go with whatever you eventually choose to eat, but 10 riders in a shop designed for two or three as well as their regular customers causes a bit of hilarity, and more congestion as they want to know why we are riding to Istanbul by bike. With a bit of knowledge of the language you can hear that the story you have told one being relayed to the others. This happened the day we missed the lunch stop by taking a short cut and taking a dinner of fresh asparagus at the only eating house in the village. The lady who was actually preparing the asparagus as we went in relayed our story to the locals having their lunchtime beer. In those places you are a star for those few minutes you are there.
As the days progress the joking amongst the group gets more and more and that relaxes any tiredness from the day’s ride. The evening meal is usually eaten with us sitting around a virtual camp fire which helps with the interaction between us all.
Tomorrow, we ride into Budapest to enjoy a rest day and also reach the half way point of the trip to Istanbul. No doubt this part of the trip will seem to go faster than getting here, and it will be memories we take with us rather than as much water as we can get onto bike frame and into jersey pockets.
- Stewart Sinclair
