Well it was only two days on the road from our rest day in Bukhara to our long awaited double rest day here in famous city of Samarqand, but everyone had to work hard enough and earn there luxurious rest days.
The directions to get to Samarqand were easy, the topography was easy, it was all flat roads and it was hot, but not as hot as some of the 50 deg weather we experienced in Azerbaijan and Turkmenistan earlier on in the expedition. It was the headwinds that almost killed everyone. The days dragged out quite a bit longer then usual as the average speed dropped to a mere 15km per hour. Most of the riders worked as a team using each other to their advantages together they would take turns breaking through the headwinds while the others could take a rest by drafting behind the rest of the group. These days provided lots of time to think, if you could only hear your own thoughts, and the cold drinks also tasted better at the end of the day.
The only night spent on the road between the two cities was spent camping in an apple orchard with some cows and donkeys. The ground was chunky and uneven, but after a day of fighting the brutal headwinds, most people could sleep anywhere. Best of all we still had the luxury of Miles cooking, and a fresh cold water tap across the road to shower up with!!
The two rest days here in Samarqand were well utilized by exploring the ancient city and checking out all the historical places we only know of through books and stories. The Registan (Sandy Place) which has been said to be “the noblest public square in the world†was a hot spot on the list of places to explore. The Registan consists of three huge madrassahs (places of study) colorfully decorated with thousands of mostly blue and green pieces of ceramic. Two of the madrassahs each had a pair of minarets(tall smoke stack like tubes), one on either side, and although you are not allowed up these 33 foot cones, if you go by the name of MAX, you will figure or bribe your way up one!!! There were also spectacular Mausoleums, bazaars and mosques to see as well. You could easily spend four or five days here and not get bored.
We have a few busy days ahead of us as we push closer and closer to China. We will spend two more full days in Uzbekistan and then we will be crossing three boarders in three days, which should be fun logistically!!! Tajikistan, Uzbekistan (again) and Kyrgyzstan here we come!!
Finally, a border crossing where everythng goes to plan!!
We had a great rest day in Mary and took in the impressive ruins at Merv as well as the enormous market out of town and the smaller regional museum. Then it was back on the bikes and back in the heat although tail winds made the going a little easier for the first couple of days.
The roads are still flat and the policmen were still sitting on our tails but the desert eases in the eastern half of the country and there was some greenery to help us on our way.
Cotton and grapes are the main crops here and we were able to stop and chat with the local pickers. There are also melons upon melons upon melons and Al has perfected his trick of balancing the biggest water melons on his bike and rides into camp each night fully loaded (although he did lose a couple in he beginning!)
We said goodbye to Turkmenistan after two more bush camps and cycled from Turkmenabat to the border incident free. There was the usual red tape but everyone passed through no problem - even Miles and the van had it relatively easy - only 4 hours of form filling!
The wind gods were against us however and the strongest headwind of the tour so far meant it was a real battle into Bukhara but it was worth it! lots of beer was flowing on our first night in Uzbekistan as now it feels like we are starting to make good progress - 4 countries down, 4 to go.
It was also time to say goodbye to Paul (me) as I have headed up to Tashkent to carry on researching my next edition of Silk Roads. So no more Mr Cheeky's tours or T-shirts I'm afraid but Ben will continue the blogs from now on.
The tour has been amazing and all the obstacles just add to the memories -
thanks guys and I hope to see everyone again very very soon
The 132km section today can be best described as pure riding bliss - despite the bumps, the potholes, the dogs, the headwinds and a couple of biking accidents. The day was short, speedy and flat and our sweet little border campsite (we are less than 10km form the Tajik border) comes complete with day beds, a spring that spurts heavenly cold water, cold drinks and shady trees. Who could complain about a biking day when it ends like this? People waved at us all day, cars honked their horns, the roads were fairly kind, the hills just mere bumps, the sun was refreshing, the scenery enjoyable, the dogs, well, they are always around, the rider meeting was full of information about our border crossings and, once again, we were treated a delicious meal to finish the day off! Our two 'patients' are both minus some skin and a wee bit banged up and bruised but will live to ride another day. Everyone spent the afternoon washing, eating, sleeping writing in journals, resting and hanging out. Two words...heaven and paradise!
It was a chaotic start to the day; trucks breaking down, an early morning convoy, riders with stomach upsets, flat tyres and the challenge of early morning traffic meant that the Silk Route group had a slowish start to the day but once they were out on the open road there was no stopping them! Not even an annoying head wind. There was also a change of scenery to go along with a new section;hills, nothing too major but some nice rollers to give the legs a kickstart and reminder of our arrival in mountainous Kyrgyzstan. The riders all commented on how nice it was to have some climbs throughout the day! Other great things about the day were the temperature (a lovely, mild sunny day), the lunch (fried egg sandwiches again – yummy) and the numerous drink stops (to keep our café crew happy). Our camp tonight is a magnificent old building that was once a restaurant. You cannot help but be awed by the pillars, old paintwork and building structure as well as be delighted by the gorgeous children of the people that own it. ‘The Golden Road’ section winners were Sandra Simon (of course!) for the women, and Chuck Giles has taken line honours for the boys section! Tomorrow, a little more of the same (and apparently some off road sections to get the mountain bikers smiling) as we go into 3 days of border crossings which should test out our patience. The border guards will not know what has hit them when about 50 dirty, dusty but totally lovable Silk Route riders arrive at their gates!
Rising before the light
Riders leaving through the night
Out on the desert highway
Warm wind in my hair
Sweet smell of camels
Rising up in the air
Far ahead in the distance
A welcoming sight
Errol parked on the roadside
Time to stop for a bite
Turning onto the gravel
The ringing of Shanny’s cell
Wondering to myself
Could this be heaven
Could this be hell
Starting on the road again
Hearing Henry’s call
60km more you’ve done it all
Last thing I remember
Carrying me down a hall
Reading some writing on a wall
A cryptic message
Whispering to me
This tour is not meant to deceive
You can check out
Anytime you like
But you can never leave
- Barb & Ken Cross
Catch the Silk Route live on TravelTalkRadio this Sunday, September 16th
Sandy Dhuyvetter, host of TravelTalkRADIO, will catch up Henry Gold along The Silk Route Bicycle Expedition this Sunday.
Date: 16th September 2007
Time: 09:30am Pacific Time; 12:30 pm Eastern Time.
LISTEN ONLINE at
www.traveltalkradio.com
To hear last week’s interview visit
http://www.traveltalkradio.com/TTR_760kfmb.html#1005
The two rest days in Samarkand can be described using any of the following words - glorious, awesome, so good, great, beautiful, wonderful, heavenly, necessary, lovely, ideal, fantastic, really good, relaxing - and probably a few others. We were charmed by the beautiful mosques, minarets and madrassahs of Registan Square (a world heritage site) and the surrounding areas, the museum and the observatory. The riders ate at the delicious restaurants and cafes in the downtown area and throughout the city parks, slept, read, did laundry, internet, phoned home, slept, read, ate and, of course, visited the local shopping areas, art gallerys, and the large bazaar. Some just walked for hours exploring. If you are from Australia, New Zealand, South Africa or England then you looked for somewhere to watch the World Cup Rugby! The riders had a whole 48 hours to enjoy themselves and relax a bit. Not to mention normal biking things like cleaning, degreasing and repairs now that the wear and tear problems have begun. Red boxes and paper work were given out to the two new riders Jean and Michiel. The support trucks were cleaned. Spare parts as well as brooms were purchased. A few riders may be missing Miles’s cooking but one cannot dispute the value and the fun a couple of rest days can do for you as part of biking heaven!
‘Sweet to ride forth at evening from the wells
When shadows pass gigantic from the sand
And softly through the silence beat the bells
Along the Golden Road to Samarkand’
A glorious sunrise along a busy stretch of road and a late breakfast and we arrived in the Uzbeki city of Samarkand, known for capturing the hearts of Alexander the Great and Marco Polo. The riders were more excited about two days rest! There was a dewy covering on the tents our orchard campsite this morning and, once again, the road was fairly flat and mostly bumpy, inter-mixed with some crazy traffic and a bit of construction. Errol made grilled cheese sandwiches at lunch so the riders are loving having him based in the lunch truck, or should I say, the gourmet truck! There was a small hiccup in the convoy plans; two routes into the city meant that 11 riders took the wrong turn so instead of the one convoy, we had two separate convoys to the hotel. Of course, the police decided to do a no-show, so it was our green support van and the two Af Routes trucks fighting off the rush hour traffic and escorting 40 tired and thirsty riders into the wide, leafy green street that houses the Hotel Shabistan, nick-named by one rider as ’the pink palace’! Its bright pink and gold exterior does no justice to the large comfortable rooms that are the inside and riders soon made use of the couches and the beer shop just down the road. Our sectional riders Victor, Hans and Jurgen…..to them we bid a sad farewell and we welcome Jean (from Canada) and Michael (form Holland) into the Silk Route family, both old cohorts form previous TDA tours! Tonight, the beers and cold juice are flowing, the hot showers running wild and riders are hunting through their permanent bags for clean clothes to wear to dinner as well as looking forward to a long sleep!
At 6.45am this morning, the group departed the lovely city of Buchoro. A short convoy meant that after 10km, the group were waved on and off they charged. The roads were lined with cotton fields, vegetable gardens, and orchards. Cafes dotted the roads. Cold drinks and shady rest stops were in abundance throughout the day. The roads were flat and bumpy. The big surprise of the day was the fried egg sandwiches that Errol cooked at the lunch truck. I mean, fried eggs, pickles, red onions, juicy tomatoes and mayonnaise!? How much more luxury can one get? The heat picked up after lunch, the riders rode on and the campsite, a delightful shady place with a restaurant and day beds as well as an apple orchard, soon appeared. To top the day off there was a yummy curry, beet salad and, of course, beers! Tomorrow, just 130km down the road is Samarkand, our home two rest days. The only sad thing about the journey in to Samarkand is the goodbyes we must say to our sectional riders Victor, Hans and Jurgen. Tonight, with full stomachs, we enjoy an Uzbekistan night on the road and dodge a million mosquitoes!
A hot day in the sun, a wind that felt like a hairdryer and a wave goodbye to Turkmenistan and a loud ‘hello’ to Uzbekistan! Well, that was the plan. The 40km ride to the border went well. The border opened and things continued to go, well, slowly. With a 100km still to go, the riders were getting ‘antsy’ waiting for their documents to be cleared and stamped! A slow and bumpy ride into Buchoro meant that those that chose to ride in the afternoon beat the trucks to the city but nobody seemed to mind; friendly people, beers, kebabs, outdoor restaurants and a great touristy atmosphere. Smiling, waving and cheering made the riders feel instantly like celebrities and so very welcome! The Uzbeki people we have been around so far have been so friendly and so happy to have us. In two days we arrive in Samarkand where there will be not one…..but two days to relax, unwind and enjoy some sightseeing and say goodbye to a coupel more of our sectional riders that are leaving us!
