\n

Tour d'Afrique Ltd. | Global Bicycle Expeditions, Races and Tours

  • Icon_social_newsletter_on
    Newsletter
  • Icon_social_rss_on
    RSS Feed
  • Icon_social_twitter_on
    Twitter
  • Icon_social_facebook_on
    Facebook
  • Icon_social_youtube_on
    YouTube

Blog | Malawi Icon_16x16_light_rss RSS

What is it with Malawi?




As we prepare to leave the sixth country in our trans-continental journey it is difficult to pinpoint exactly how I feel about Malawi.

This has been the first really tropical country on our journey… our first overnight camp was called Humidity camp after all! And it really is a beautiful place. Lush, green forests, a glitteringly beautiful lake, white beaches, balmy starry nights and the ability to relax like you haven’t done in a long time.



But something somehow seems a little off. The atmosphere of change and a twinge of revolt is everywhere in the air. Rife fuel shortages make travelling difficult and though the majority of the locals are friendly we seem to be back to the mentality of “give me your money”, something we haven’t experienced since Ethiopia.



Bikes everywhere

One good thing about the fuel shortages though is the absence of other cars on the road and of all the countries we’ve visited yet we have seen the most bicycles in Malawi, by far. Everyone – from the youngest boy reaching the pedals only on his tip toes while hovering above his top tube; to the old woman transporting a pig on the back of her bike to the market; to the taxi driver taking a whole family downtown – are on a bike. For once we have not feel threatened by trucks or buses on the road and it seems as though bikes here have the right of way and not the other way around.



Rain, rain stay away

It has been hot and humid and the rain we have been avoiding so successfully until now finally caught up with us in most spectacular fashion in Lilongwe. Building and packing bikes in a typhoon has never been fun but we all know it could have been so much worse had we had rain in Tanzania and the whole of Malawi as we were supposed to so we’re not complaining. We were drenched on our first rest day but the rain was yet again kind and stopped on the last of our rest days to give us time to give our tents some air and get rid of the worst of the moldy smells following us around.



Good bye Malawi

Despite the definite edge to the country, Malawi has been enjoyable. We are following the same routine we have been since January but things here seem to happen that little bit slower and most riders will agree they feel refreshed when we set of on the next leg of our journey.  And how can you not be after spending a week in the “Warm heart of Africa”?


   -- Catharina Robbertze

Posted April 05, 2012 by Guest Author
Malawi 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


Winding down




The question of time and its relativity has been discussed countless times on this tour. One day it feels as though we’ve been here forever and still have forever to go, the next minute time seems to have flown by in a haze of dust, wind and blood, sweat and tears.



For the last almost three months we have had nothing on our minds but getting through the next 100km and what time we’ll have another plate of food in front of us. It has been a simple and largely satisfying life. And why wouldn’t it if your biggest concern every day was whether it’s going to rain, the last time that was the only thing keeping me up at night was when I was eight years old!



Imagine then the shock and horror to our systems when some riders have started to make plans for their future during the past week. Some have found jobs for when they return home, others are carrying on in their travels and some are returning to their jobs. For the rest of us, our dreams are slowly turning back to normal adult dreams of “how do I pay the bills?” and “where am I headed?”



The good news though is there still is six weeks of this most amazing adventure left. We have seen numerous highlights but some of the best ones still are yet to come. As we cross our sixth border and enter Zambia we should hear the rumble of the Victoria Falls in only a few days. Cycling with elephants and lions as spectators in Botswana is something many of us have been looking forward to and the desolate plains of Namibia seems appealing after we have been surrounded by people next to the road since we entered Ethiopia.



Once again we are filled with conflicting feelings as this trip that once seemed like it would never end is slowly winding its way down. All that is left now is to enjoy the rest of it as much as possible without thinking about those adult problems back home too much.


   -- Catharina Robbertze

Posted April 05, 2012 by Guest Author
Malawi 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


Lake Malawi = Heaven




I’ve always found the beach of an inland lake a strange concept. The water is fresh, you can usually see the other side of the lake and there aren’t any waves but the sand and atmosphere is as though you are on the beach of Clifton.



It is no different at Lake Malawi but somehow it fits.  As we rode all along the edge of the Lake to the location of our rest day on the beach you would have been forgiven if you thought you were in Mozambique when you looked around. The locals, the climate, the smell and the atmosphere would have done nothing to convince you otherwise and we wouldn’t have it any other way as this rest days is one of the best on tour.



Rest days can be a hit and miss as we sometimes roll into the smallest of towns to spend a day there, only to find out it is Sunday and no shops are open. But sometimes (like this time) we get to spend a day in a place that seems like heaven. Arriving at the edge of the Lake was akin to arriving at the gates of heaven and everyone was in the water within minutes of arriving and in the beach bar only a short while later. Beach volleyball, bonfires, stargazing from the lukewarm water and a good and proper chilling session contributed to create a day that will be remembered for a long time coming.

The highlights of this trip can sometimes overwhelm you with no warning. This was one of those highlights.

  -- Catharina Robbertze

Posted March 29, 2012 by Guest Author
Malawi 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


Report from Lilongwe




The Tour d’Afrique 2011 has reached the 7000 km mark. After Egypt, Sudan, Ethiopia, Kenya and Tanzania, the world’s longest bicycle stage race/expedition is now in Malawi, the country known as the “Warm Heart of Africa”. TDA 2011 stays 10 days in Malawi, including 7 riding days and 3 rest days, covering 800 km on large and paved roads.

Still in Tanzania, 40 km before the border, we had our first glimpses of Malawi and its world famous Lake Malawi, Africa’s third biggest lake. After crossing the border, we cycled along the M1 and the shoreline past fishing villages to Chitimba Beach, where we had a rest day.

Leaving Lake Malawi behind, we climbed up the escarpment into the central plateau en route to the provincial capital of Mzuzu, climbing from 465 to 1318 meters, and getting ready for the next day, a “mando day”, which means that the racer who wins get a 30 minutes bonus (Adam Stickler won it). On the road, cycling farmers transported chickens, grains and just about anything between their villages and the nearest market. After passing through the roller coaster Viphya Mountains and the sleepy town of Kasungu, the Tour arrived (on Sunday) at Lilongwe, the capital city of Malawi. From Lilongwe it will be a pleasant day’s ride west on the M12 to Mchinji and the Zambian Border, where we cross to the seventh country on our tour.

It’s been a hard week, but none of the EFIs gave it up and very few riders had to ride the trucks.

Paul Wolfe, the man leading the race, says he could never expect so many beautiful landscapes and nice campsites. The man who is winning the world’s longest bicycle race/expedition says it’s all about the strategies. “The art of bicycle racing is like the art of war. You have got to do the unexpected and read the opponent’s weaknesses and strengths, but you also need a lot of diplomacy”.

Mike Fantasia, from the USA, who has done many half and full Ironman triathlons is not competing. He is enjoying himself and the tour, as a part of a 2 years break from work where he is travelling around the world, cycling, surfboarding and doing whatever he feels like. In his opinion, “this is definitely the best way to discover a continent”. It looks like almost 100 people on the TDA family agree with him completely.

Posted April 05, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Malawi 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


Progress




This cross-continental bicycle tour is still making progress. It has crossed the half way point and now some riders are looking forward to finish line.  Two and half months together have been enough to build ties which unite the individual cyclists to the larger community; a community that shares the same values and goals. Supporting each other is an unavoidable responsibility. This is part of what has made everything successful so far.

No one place can illustrate the essence of Africa…

It has been so much fun as well as a challenge to cycle through Africa.  It was exciting moment to be in the desert; every moment in Ethiopia was breath-taking; the Melt Down Madness showed us how important it is to know your limitations; the Masai Steppe and Malawi Gin sections have taken us back in time to a more natural world. 

It seems like there is no excitement without some price; Pharaoh Delight brought with it heat and winds; the Nile Gorge had climbs and stone throwing kids; Melt Down Madness really melted down our madness; Masai Steppe took us back to the country side with rains, mad and ferocious tse-tse flies and so far Malawi Gin has been “du gateau”…

Nyasaland…

Malawi is the end of the Great Rift Valley so geographically it is more connected to East Africa, regionally it is more connected to the former British colonies - North Rhodesia-Zambia and South Rhodesia-Zimbabwe and economically looks to Johannesburg rather than Nairobi. This is because it is relatively a small country - about 840kms long and 160kms wide.  With such a magnificent landscape, friendly people and a chance to sleep in a basic camp site each night makes the Malawi Gin section a little bit relaxing.

We rode down from Mbeya, Tanzania to the Lake Malawi basin where it is hot and humid - good for mosquitoes! Climbing out of this valley was a challenge but the stunning panoramic  view was worth it. From then on it has been pleasant riding through lush green rolling hills dotted by houses, maize and tobacco fields.  The toughest day was the mountain pass where Adam proved to be strongest - winning the stage on the Mando day.

Today the tour started from Kasungu the home town of Malawi’s former president for life, Banda It is 131km of rolling hills with beautiful weather. Most of the riders are looking forward to their arrival in Lilongwe - ready to start two rest days.   

     -- Elvis  

Posted April 04, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Malawi 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


Paul Wolfe - Race Leader




Born in northern Alberta, Canada, in a French speaking village in 1953, Paul Wolfe has had many professions during his working life. Retired, he owns an ambulance company and a real estate business. In 1977, he started racing road bicycles and did not stop ever since. His cycling curriculum includes dozens of professional races, and on the master category he has won many Canadian National Championships. He also has one gold and one silver medal on the World Championship.

World champion Paul Wolfe’s riding routine depends on the next race he will take part on, but he usually trains 5 days a week, most of the time century rides (in Mexico during the winter and in Italy during the summer). After doing a bicycle tour in Thailand, decided to try something tougher, Paul Wolfe (raised with the wolves as he says) was browsing the internet and found out about the Tour d’Afrique. The world’s longest stage race was definitely something he should do, and the time was now.  After lots of research, he chose every piece of equipment he would use on the tour, and then it was time to test all of it and to start doing some focused training. In Canada, he tested his winter clothes and rode on cold weather and on altitude. Then he flew to Mexico to ride in warmer weather and to test his all titanium cyclocross Moots bicycle on corrugated gravel roads. “None of that prepared me to those northern Kenya lava rock roads. You can’t find those anywhere else” he says.

A very strong cyclist for sure, Paul’s fitness is not his only weapon, especially against his younger opponents. With 35 years of racing experience, he is a man of strategies. According to him, the art of racing is very similar to the art of war. “I try to always do the unexpected and to read everyone’s strengths and weaknesses”. Winning the first mando day (the second day of the race) was one of his goals, and only for that stage he trained for a full month in Mexico. Around 10 hours ahead of the race’s second place, he points the “Truch Stage”, the day when all the racers decided not to race and take it easy, stopping for cold cokes and pictures, as one of the best days on the Tour.  “But the best day was actually when I was really sick in northern Kenya, suffering a lot on the corrugation, and was still able to reach one of my main adversary and to keep up with him until the end of the stage”.

Christine Wolfe, his wife, is a big responsible for his decision to be here (with her). “She convinced me that I wasn’t going to get any younger, and she was the one in touch with the TDA office frequently to get as much information as possible about the race so that I could get the proper equipment and training for it”.

Good luck guys, let the madness continue!


Posted April 03, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Malawi 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


Rest Day in Chitimba




Yesterday was a rest day on the Tour d’Afrique 2011. How often they happen depends on many factors. After an 8 day stretch from Arusha to Mbeya (Tanzania) where we rested for one day, we cycled for only 2 days before we had another free day on the beach at Lake Malawi.

Lake Malawi is one of the biggest lakes in Africa, and its beaches attract visitors from all over the world. Hotels, lodges, or campsites (some calm, other going crazy with many overland trucks and parties), you can choose what you like. There are excellent fish, beautiful scenery, and lots of greenery.  It’s a perfect place for a rest.

The concept of “rest day” on the Tour d’Afrique is a little different than on a regular holiday. Sometimes it’s the only chance that everyone has to get up to date with the real world and to get ready for the next stretch of the tour. We had come in from a rest day 2 days earlier in Chitimba (the name of the village where we stayed by the lake), but that rest day had certainly not been enough. Our day in Chitimba was an easy one. People still washed their clothes and prepared their bicycles for the next stretch, but it was a chilled pace, Malawian style. It was a rest day to not be forgotten by the Tour d’Afrique 2011 family.

At sunrise, you could already see the first TDA warriors walking on the beach, finishing their washing and walking around with their spare parts waiting for Gabe and Martin’s bike shop. It wasn’t even 8 o’clock yet when a big hole was excavated for the preparation of an unusual dinner. On rest days, people make their own plans, and most of the time the riders want to try some of the delicious local dishes found all over Africa. It’s the chance to get away from the big group, and also it’s when the staff gets to rest, but at Chitimba there are not many choices for the riders. For that reason, we decided to have a rest day dinner, and stuffed chicken on beer sounded like a good plan. A big hole on the ground, chicken wrapped in aluminum foil, and lots of charcoal covering it all to cook for the entire day was the kitchen’s secret weapon.



At nine o’clock, the bike shop opened for a long day of fixing bikes and, at the same time, the trucks received some love and care.

Dozens of computers tried to update blogs and upload pictures at the reception, and countless plugs charged hundreds of electronic devices at the bar.

At 6 o’clock the delicious dinner was served.   As usual, the TDA village fell asleep right after it had been devoured.   Another 4 tough days wait for us on our way to Zambia, the seventh country on our route. Off we go!  

   -- Cristiano Werneck

Posted April 01, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Malawi 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


Border to the Beach




Today is our first riding day in Malawi.  It’s a beautiful one too.  Our route takes us right by the northern part  of the lake.  We’re bound for a little place called Chitimba Beach – right on Lake Malawi. 

As I ride I am amazed at the number of people on bicycles.  I think the people of Malawi realize how convenient, low cost and efficient the bicycle is as a means of transport. 

As I ride I greet many people but there’s two local cyclists that I have a good conversation with as I ride.  The first is called David.  David is off for a job interview at a restaurant in the next village.  He’s a good rider and his bike makes less noise than mine and we ride together until we’re at his destination.

The other is Laka.  Laka is riding side saddle with her husband doing the pedalling.  Baby Pauline is strapped to Laka’s back with a piece of cloth.  The whole family is literally able to ride on one bicycle.  They are off to the medical clinic.  Baby Pauline has been sick with a nasty cough for 3 days and needs to see a doctor and get some medicine. 

They both ask where I’m going and when I tell them “Chitimba” they are surprised.  To them it seems like a long way to pedal in a day but us crazy Mzungus are used to it now.    


   -- Claire Pegler 

Posted March 29, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Malawi 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


Malawi food memories



Overview: Sandwiched between Tanzania, Zambia and Mozambique, “The Warm Heart of Africa” is a land of simple food brought to the table by local farmers toiling away at subsistence crops like maize, cassava and sweet potatoes. Fish is one of the largest protein sources thanks to Lake Malawi – an absolutely incredible example of biodiversity; we’re talking more fish species than any other lake in the world, including members of the beautifully delicious cichlid family, highly prized in both culinary circles and the aquarium trade.
 
In lieu of a stove, food is traditionally cooked over a wood or charcoal fire using the east African classic - “tripod/three supporting stones” - method. Many Malawians also have mud stoves for baking bread outside.
 
The fruit here continues to impress with a wide variety of juicy vitamin packed goodness to choose from along with a good selection of green leafy vegetables and beans.
 
Staple Foods:
 
Nsima: By now, you may be a seasoned pro at the art of rolling slick maize meal balls - or maybe you’re still trying to wash the smears of ugali out of your bike shorts. Fear not! You’ve still got time to master it.  Malawians call their maize meal “Nsima,” but it’s essentially the same thing. Maize was brought to the continent from the Americas by the Portugese and is prolific throughout east Africa for a number of reasons: it stores well, has a convenient protective husk to help keep birds off the cobs, and in the right conditions, it’s highly productive.
 
By some Malawian standards, a meal is not psychologically complete without Nsima. No matter how much you’ve eaten (never mind if you’ve had to undo your pants), you’ve only had a “snack” unless that meal included Nsima.
 
Ndiwo: In Malawi, you eat your Nsima with a relish or two. Relishes – or side dishes – are called Ndiwo. One is often fish, meat or egg-based, the other made of veggies like cabbage or sweet potatoes and ground peanuts. Relishes are prepared with a hefty amount of oil and cooked through – eating raw or undercooked vegetables is not part of the culture.
 
Cassava: The “other” starch – cassava can also be used to make nsima, but some view it as inferior in flavour compared to maize. Cassava was also introduced by the Portugese; but unlike maize, it’s incredibly hearty. Not only can cassava tolerate poor soil and drought, but also a wide range of elevations, putting once unproductive land to good use.
 
Fish: Fish is big here thanks to Lake Malawi. Chambo is a type of tilapia fish and is considered a national delicacy. Crispy fried Chambo and Chips is a popular street food option and Curried Chambo makes a nice relish.
 
Street Foods:
 
Chicken and Chips: Soggy chips partnered with scrawny deep fried pieces of chicken (see food remnants in James’s beard for an example).
 
Mice Ka-Bobs: Some of you may have a difficult time enjoying foods outside of your usual repertoire, especially those of animal origin. But for those with a more adventure-some palate, Malawi has just what the doctor ordered! Kapuku are a breed of field mice that grow plump on maize and other crops. The ‘original recipe’ is simple: boil the mice, salt them, then cook over a fire until nearly bone dry. Young men and boys do most of the hunting; batches are strung onto long mouse ka-bob sticks and sold in markets and roadside stalls. Kapuku are known for their rather detrimental distinguishing behavioural feature – they hide out in groups of 25-50 in a single hole, making them the favourite jackpot for hunters.
 
Beer: Welcome to your Carlsberg years… Chances are if you’re reaching for a beer in Malawi, it’s going to be a Carlsberg. The company’s Malawi brewery opened in 1968 and was the first outside of Denmark. The beers’ been flowing ever since.
 
Malawi Gin: It may not be the finest spirit you’ve ever tasted, and don’t ask me if it’s made with Juniper berries. But after a long day on the bike, Malawi’s version of the classic G & T goes down real smooth.

Posted April 08, 2010 by Allison Barnes
Malawi 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


Tim Thomas wins 'Malawi Gin' section



Finally back on the pavement! 
Sorry dirt lovers, the ‘Malawi Gin’ section from Iringa to Lilongwe was all pavement.  From the rolling mountains of South Tanzania to the lake shores of Malawi this section was a favourite amongst the roadies.  Jenn Crake nearly overtook Jethro de Decker on stage 63 losing the bragging rights due
to a long lunch break.  (It was avocado and fried egg sandwich day, who can resist!)

Frans ‘Mando’ Smit continued his domination of the ‘Mando Days’, but this time Stuart and Jethro were behind him by only moments.  The top three men's times were 4:40, 4:41 and 4:42. Watch out Frans, these boys are coming up fast.  Gizzy Gartmair and Stuart Briggs are neck and neck.  Gizzy continues to challenge Stuart the current overall winner.  The two finished the section with only one minute separating them.

Tim Thomas prevailed in this section.  Having been beaten down by weeks of abuse on the dirt roads he relished the days of smooth pavement. Riding alone into the beach side resort of Chitimba Thomas joked "I won by the hair on my chinny, chin chin." When asked how he won the ‘Malawi Gin’ section Thomas continued to joke  "I picked the easiest section to win, when all my competitors were taking time off."

The next section ‘Zambezi Zone’ from Lilongwe to Victoria Falls will prove challenging to the racers taking on daily distances of over 150km.

Posted April 07, 2010 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Malawi 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook