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The First Month




After nearly 4 weeks of riding our group has crossed from the Atlantic to the Pacific. It´s a small accomplishment admittedly, it´s not even the widest part of the continent, yet it´s an accomplishment that we can regard with pride. The days go by quickly on this tour; individual camps and roads blend into a scattered slide-show of foggy memories. But the major landmarks are observed with a sort of reverence, real indicators of the distance that has been covered thus far. Crossing a border and putting a country behind us is always cause for celebration. Our first pass over the Andes was an experience that none on the tour will soon forget. And now that we´ve reached the Pacific it really feels like we´ve made some progress.

The curious shape of Chile follows the natural boundaries of the landscape. It is the Andes that push this narrow sliver of land against the sea. This is an observable fact as we make our way up the coast from Santiago. Soft peaks, laden with cactus and scrub, roll down from our right, level of, then crumble into the ocean on our left. Lizards flick under rocks as we pass, and circling vultures float overhead searching for their next meal. Blooming flowers lend a dash of colour to the land that results in a scene of surprising beauty.



Do not, for a moment, fool yourself into thinking that because we´re traveling along the coast that this is some leisurely beach cruise. Each day holds big changes in elevation; one moment we´re looking down on a dark stirring ocean from a distance, the next we´re catching the unmistakable scent of salt spray in the air. ´´Rolling hills´´ is a frequently used descriptor on these tours, but for this stretch the term, again, feels somewhat inadequate. Yet our hard work is rewarded with camps of epic beauty, on secluded beaches, well out of the realm of the guidebook toting crowd. Our evenings are spent wandering around camp, cameras in hand, attempting to capture the magic of the scene, and hold it with us. Tomorrow holds another camp, another adventure, and soon this place will blend into the mists of our memory.

Posted November 04, 2011 by James McKerricher
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1 section down; 4 to go




The Vuelta Sudamericana tour departed Buenos Aires more than three weeks ago, has passed through Santiago and is now continuing up the coast of Chile.

In crossing Argentina we´ve traveled through an incredible diversity of land and cityscapes. Out of Buenos Aires we followed the Rio de La Plata through the seemingly endless Pampas, rolled over the Sierra Chicas, which proved to be nothing more than a warm-up, descended into San Juan and wine country, then worked our way up and over the Andes underneath the gaze of Aconcagua. Along the way we´ve struggled against long days of sand, gravel and broken pavement, and contended with relentless wind. But our efforts have not gone unrewarded; steep climbs are followed by epic descents, long days on terrible roads often end in wonderful campsites. Rest days have been spent exploring bustling cities with something for everyone, be it a night on the town, a insightful museum, or a leisurely stroll to relax a pair of well used riding legs.



With so many TDA alumni on the tour it is hard not to make comparisons with past tours. All agree that compared to Africa, this tour has been downright luxurious. The riding remains challenging but something about this tour makes it feel like a real vacation. Is it the regular hot showers that are available at many campsites? Or is it the variety of cheap and delicious restaurants waiting for us on rest days? Or perhaps the secret lies in the prodigious quantities of alcoholic beverages the group quaffs on a daily basis. Whatever it is, it´s working, we´re having fun. 



The group has fallen into a rhythm that is syncopated from that of the Argentinians; we´re sitting down for dinner as they´re waking up from siesta, they´re coming home from the nightclubs as we´re getting up for breakfast, restaurant staff look at us funny when we ask if they serve dinner at 7. But the Argentinian passion for life is contagious and has left its mark on the group. Each rider has approached the tour from a different angle, pursuing individual interests and curiosities. Many in our group are working hard every day to improve their Spanish, we have a contingent of students and a professor learning about the agriculture, others are exploring this place through it´s history, while others are exploring the cities through the nightlife, which has not failed to impress. All in the group seem to bring a passion for food and drink; a few bringing a scholarly passion for wine, seeking out the finest Malbecs that never seem to leave the country.

Along the way we´ve learned to travel as a team. We´ve been exposed to so many new things, enjoyed unique experiences and traveled through a myriad of ecosystems. We´ve had good days and bad. We´ve grown stronger. Efforts to learn the language have been rewarded with cultural insights, and fewer frustrations. As we say good-bye to Argentina and welcome Chile we look forward to a new set of pains and pleasures. Ahead of us lies several hundred kilometers of crashing surf, the driest desert in the world, and the lung busting heights of the altiplano. We´ve seen so much, but this is only the beginning.

Posted October 20, 2011 by James McKerricher
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The Andes




There is perhaps no other form of travel that heightens ones awareness of the changes in landscape  and climate than the bicycle. The air traveler can find themselves in a new environment in a matter of hours, the cyclist has the pleasure of observing these changes with each rotation of the pedals.

The ascent out of San Juan took us from warm flat wine country up into a landscape of low hills, straw colored, and soft from a distance. The next morning we woke to find ice lining our water bottles. These low hills, gently etched by years of sporadic rains, gave way to the geological mayhem of the Andes. Sharp peaks appeared slowly, as the hills thrust skyward, transforming into hostile mountains; jagged, and crumbling.



We followed this narrow ribbon of pavement winding through the mountains to Puente del Inca, 30 km from the border, where Winter has been waiting. A brief spell of snow somehow managed to close the mountain pass to the border. There in a ski lodge hostel we waited, with little to distract us from doing nothing. It was a scene of relaxation; napping, reading, walking. The phrase on everyones lips was simply “it is what it is”. There was nothing left to do but wait.


Posted October 19, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
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Snow




The Andes are one of the greatest challenges on the Vuelta Sudamericana and one of the biggest draws for riders. Ever since Buenos Aires people have been asking questions about them. How high will we be? How cold can it get? What are the roads like? How many days will we be in the Andes?

Seventeen riding days out of Buenos Aires we arrived in Puente del Inca, not far away from our highest point in Argentina.  Puente del Inca has a ski town feeling. It´s just a few kilometers from a ski resort and it´s nothing but a hostel and a few shops and snack bars at 2800 meters of altitude.

Not long after we got there, snow flakes starting coming down. Nothing special, only a few flakes – no one was concerned about it and the weather forecast didn´t suggest anything to worry about. We drove to the border to have a chat with the immigration officers about all the paperwork to be done on the next day and even at the summit (3200 m) the weather wasn´t very bad. A little snow, nothing to freak out about. Riders were drinking wine and listening to the manager of the hostel singing Karaoke at the bar. Everything was going according to what we had planned and what we expected. After dinner, everyone went to bed early to get some rest for the next stage.



At 6:30 in the morning on the next day we were informed by the manager that the mountain pass (and therefore the border) was closed. It was snowing a little bit more than the day before but it didn´t look bad. We tried to drive to the border to find out some more info. It didn´t make sense that an area used to such a rough weather in winter wasn´t able to manage a spring snow fall. There was not one single car on the road and as we got higher it was snowing for real and the road was very icy. As we got to the tunnel Redentor we found it closed. The local police didn´t even know the tunnel was closed, and the only officer we found at the Argentinean aduana had no idea what time the pass would be opened. It could be a few hours, or it could be a few days.



The snow accumulation report showed more and more snow for the afternoon and a lot more for the next few days. At 9 o´clock we invited Mark, our bike mechanic, who lives in Whistler and has a lot of experience with snow storms and avalanche control, to drive with us up there to see if the tunnel was opened. Snow was building up on the side of the road and the road was still icy, but there were already a few trucks plowing the road. The tunnel was still closed but Mark´s opinion was the same as ours. They would open the road soon. “In Whistler, no one would ever consider closing a road because of this. This is nothing”.



It was almost noon and we were already organizing lunch for everyone with the manager in the hostel when I saw a bus driving up the road. A few minutes later, another one. The first vehicles we had seen all day long except for the ones plowing the road earlier. We decided to wait no more and even without being sure that the tunnel and the border were open we put everyone in the truck and started  transferring the whole group towards the border.

It turned out that we were right and as we got closer to the border we drove by a few vehicles coming on the other direction which meant that the pass was opened. After almost 4 hours freezing at the border dealing with immigration and customs, we were cleared to enter Chile.



The epic switchbacks and a total descent of over 2000 meters from the border to Los Andes in Chile was the reward for our hard work and patience. We arrived an hour before the sun started to disappear. Despite the exhausting day, everyone was smiling and happy. “What a day”, said Svend. “I love this, this is a real adventure! This is what I came here for!”.

Congratulations to the staff for their hard work and for keeping calm all the time and congratulations to all the riders for not losing their good mood - not even for a second.

Thanks a lot you all!

Posted October 17, 2011 by Cristiano Werneck
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Never a Dull Moment




From the pictures that the expedition has beeen sending so far...



...I would never have anticipated the latest message from the Tour Leader, Cristiano -

"Hey guys, I would just like to let you know that we are still in Puente Del Inca.  There is a lot of snow coming down and the border is closed.  We are calling them every half hour, but they have no idea what time they will open. We might have to stay here for one or two days more, but since there are tracks plowing the road already, I am optimistic. "

Never a dull moment on our expeditions!

Posted October 13, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
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Dirt




It will never cease to amaze me the distance that can be covered by a strong group of cyclists over a day, a week, or a month. Countries and continents are crossed with the simple combination of determination and teamwork. Every stretch has it’s own pains and pleasures; the challenges are always changing, the pleasures unpredictable. From the beauty of a mountain top sunset, to the joy of a simple conversation in a foreign tongue; everyday is different, every experience unique.

“It feels like we’ve finally left” Jason Gannon commented as he crested the final hill to reach camp on our first day out of Cordoba. Many echoed the same sentiments. The stretch from Buenos Aires to Cordoba was vaguely familiar; the climb into the Sierra Chicas was otherworldly.

The last few days into San Juan have had multiple challenges; loose gravel and sand, intense heat, and relentless wind. The wind has been a real wild card each day. It usually manifests as a cross or head wind during the day, testing the will of even the strongest riders. During the evening it refuses to settle down, testing our tent securing abilities.

Our rest day here in San Juan has provided the much needed rest for all. The little town, in the heart of wine country, boasts the succulent meat, and bountiful wine that we’ve come to expect of Argentina. We rested, we ate, we drank, and now we’re ready for all the surprises that lay in the week ahead. Next stop Santiago!

 

Posted October 11, 2011 by James McKerricher
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A Beautiful Ride




We are back on the road again after the first rest day. It’s a day of firsts; first hills, first real test of the tires and bikes, first bush camp (limited washing water, no electricity or even cell phone reception)  and first time the riders have had to dig a pit to do their business!

Were not in the Andes yet but today saw the riders through 87km and 1500m+ of climbing. We are now sitting at over 1700m for the night and the temperature has dropped as you’d expect - but not uncomfortably so.

It was a great sensation to finally be away from the long flat roads which, while they remind some of home, where playing with my mind. The landscape is incredible, lots of what I’m presuming is granite poking through grasslands. Keeping us company we’ve had horses, cattle and a few sheep but very few people or cars and better still no sign of power lines anywhere.

The roads are expected to get tough tomorrow but, to compensate, the distances are less than they have been. Dinner is on the burners and tents are up. Life is good.

Posted October 07, 2011 by Mark Knight
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Finding our legs





Following the Rio Parana to Rosario, then beyond to Cordoba we’ve traveled through a landscape that affects each rider differently. Our mid-west contingent has found it vaguely familiar, comfortable. Others have found themselves in want of something a little more exciting. It would be a stretch to call this stretch spectacular; but it isn’t without its charms. We’ve passed groves of ripe fragrant citrus, and vast open fields dotted with cattle and fringed by towering eucalyptus. Fruit trees explode into blossom, telling us beyond a doubt that Spring is here. Along the way an endless parade of parilla restaurants promise the world’s most succulent steaks, and locals are happy to chat with any who are able.

As the days go by we find ourselves constantly learning and evolving to our new surroundings. By now we can all greet the locals without sounding like complete gringos, and we’re certainly able to order another beer. We’ve learned to be constantly on guard for dog poo on city streets, and somehow grown used to the sounds of barking dogs at night. We’ve ceased to notice overly passionate couples in public, and have been constantly spoiled by good cheap wine.

The flat open landscape with its endless sky may bore some after a while; but the complete lack of hills has been a gift for many riders as they’ve had to battle fierce winds and contend with stretches of loose gravel. Really, this has been the perfect stretch to ‘find our legs’. The peaks of the Sierra Chicas loom in the distance.     

Posted October 06, 2011 by James McKerricher
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Tough days




All the days except the first have been running at around 150km’s. On its own 150kms is a big day but not unbearable, we have had 30-50kms of dirt roads added into that mix as well as 35-38c heat. 4 days in and I think most of the group is feeling it a little. Yesterday threw in a brutal cross and head wind to battle with, the terrain is flat and unspectacular making the mind games take over at times on the road. James the chef observed he can tell a hard day when there is left over food, people are so tired they can’t even summon the energy to go and get seconds, eating itself taking too much effort at that point of the day.

I have been incredibly impressed with the groups teamwork and camaraderie, there are a number of riders who have never done more than 60kms before and aren’t passionate cyclists but the willingness to battle on each day even this early on has surprised me. Slowly the routine is kicking in, each morning people seem to be a little faster to drop their tents, the chef is telling less people where to find their breakfast (always amuses me when three months in people still cannot figure out that the same flask that has had hot water every day so far will most likely be the best place to look for hot water.) Today finds us with 138kms from Bouquet to Villa Maria, the wind is brutal though the direction is a little more favourable than yesterday, and as I sit at lunch waiting for the riders to come in, I’m feeling grateful that a few clouds have rolled in to take away the heat we have been riding through. Roads are finally quiet having taken a few days to properly get away from the crazy traffic of Buenos Aires.

 

Posted September 30, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
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So far, so good!




An American agriculture teacher with three students having classes during the rides and in camp, and broadcasting audio classes through the internet to many others students in the classrooms back at home. A very strong rider from the UK who has been living in Switzerland for a long part of his life. A handful of TDA alumni who decided to cycle all over the world with us, including one on her 5th tour (Tour d'Afrique, Silk Route, Amber Route, India and now Vuelta). An Italian man who has done uncountable cycle tour and speaks very little English. Canada, United States, Germany, Holland, England, South Africa, Denmark, Italy and Brazil. One must add all these countries to the list of countries that the Vuelta Sudamericana goes through (Argentina, Chile, Bolivia and Peru) to try to understand the variety and mix of cultures that we are starting to experience in South America right now.

Life on Tour is an unique experience. Long days of riding, tastes, odors, sounds and cultures. New friends, expectations, surprises and frustrations. “Intense” and  “unknown” are two words that describe quite well what these first 4 days of cycling in Argentina have been. Long days, heat and cold, wind, country roads and curious locals that want to know all about our journey. Many of the riders have  already shown that by the end of the tour they will be fluent in Spanish, and as we approach our first rest day, in Cordoba, we are all trying to get fit to be ready to leave the “pampas” behind and to experience what life in the Andes is like. Join us while we travel through a wide diversity of cultures and landscapes on the southern part of the Americas. Travel with us through the blogs and photos that we will be posting, or come and meet us for one of the last sections of the tour, on the high plateaus of Bolivia and Peru. So far, so good!

Posted September 29, 2011 by Cristiano Werneck
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