After leaving France, our team of riders have hardly left Germany's many bicycle paths. These cycleways offer a welcome reprieve from the challenges of sharing the road with cars and trucks that fly past at speeds far greater than ours. These paths offer a new sort of challenge -- the paths are often very busy and packed with other riders, pedestrians, swarms of insects, mud, and gravel. At least once, the rough gravel has caused a rider to fall off of their bike and bite the dust. In spite of the hazards, each and every day along our route has been wonderful.

Our route largely follows the beautiful Danube River that begins in the town of Donaueschingen and flows eastward from a natural spring called the Donauquelle. We follow the designated paths that correspond to this river all the way to Bratislava, Slovakia; however, the ride from Eggelstetten to Kipfenberg and on to Regensburg changed things up a little bit when we instead followed the Altmühltal cycle path that follows the flow of the river of the same name. This allowed us to enjoy a number of Germany's beautiful forests, small villages, farms, and even the occasional flea market.

We have been fortunate to have had incredibly beautiful weather along the way. The crisp, clean air and bright sunlight have made each day a real joy. In fact, we've had to leave camp in a downpour only once -- and the rain cleared up before noon. Let's hope that we continue to be so lucky on our journey east.

The great meals that Hatice and Miles provide offer the perfect incentive for us riders to make it to lunch and dinner. Adam, Mark, and Paul from Nova Scotia, whom we collectively call the "Jackrabbits" because they leave in the morning at lightning speeds to make it back to camp early. What's the rush guys? Maybe they're just hungry and are eagerly awaiting the next meal. The rest of us tend to ride together, and we also tend to make frequent stops. In the morning we scout out a nice bakery or café for a cup of coffee or hot chocolate and a little snack. In the afternoon we often make another stop. This time it's for something cooler, like an ice cream cone or a tall glass of beer.

The time that we spend together when we aren't riding has been just as enjoyable. We spend lots of time at camp getting to know one another a little better by telling stories, the occasional joke, and talking about the people that we miss back home. Besides the time that we spend on our bikes, the best part of every day is the chance to explore the new places that the tour brings us. Now we're enjoying a well deserved rest day in Regensburg before we head back to the trail for five more days until we reach our next chance to sleep in a warm and comfortable bed in beautiful Vienna.

Perhaps the notion of comparing Bavarians to the Mackenzie Brothers is peculiar to begin with.  Firstly, for most people who have not been inducted by birth or immigration into Canadian culture, there is the question of, “Who are the Mackenzie brothers?”  Secondly, for those that are familiar with the 1980’s Canadian television program SCTV, and the Mackenzie brothers, there is the question of, “What do Bavarians have to do with a couple of beer chugging, toque wearing, plaid devoted, cold weather dwelers?”  Thirdly, for some out there, there is the question of “What are Bavarians?”   Fourthly, it’s possible that the comparison is moot.  Why?  Well, because the Mackenzie brothers were perhaps a dream, a cultural pinnacle that Canada struggled towards, along a daunting track of ambivalent cool, and subtle over-indulgence.  Where as Bavarians, may very well have achieved this state of grace.  That said, and some will certainly protest, this blissful state was reached not recently, but some centuries ago here in Bavaria.  Historical accounts are stored in hidden archives, but the evidence is in the feeling of humorous calm that still lingers in the Danube’s flow as one cycles along it’s shore, awaiting a cold beer at ride’s end.

  Hmmm… it’s been a fine introduction to Germany and Bavaria the last few days for all the O.E. cyclists.  A few chose to search out the starting point of the Danube, located in the town of Donaueshingen.  It should feel both a joy and a daunting test to begin the long journey along the rivers path.  Luckily it appears most of our riders have already become quite accustomed to the way of the Donauredwegen (the Danube cycle trail) and it’s many small, and sometimes challenging navigational signs.  There is certainly no shortage of stops along the path for coffee, tea, or some fine German cuisine, and other than one day of rain, we’ve continued to enjoy pleasant days.

  Today found us arriving in Ulm, a city both famed as Einstein’s birthplace, and for the largest church in the World, the Ulm Minster.  Conveniently, a religious holiday has fallen on our rest day, which will make for a true day of leisure, a picnic on the Danube sounds like a wonderful idea to me.  Happy cycling.  Coookookookokokokooo

Once or twice in a lifetime, if you are fortunate, you come into the presence of a human being who seems to possess, with such grace and ease, the attributes of a celestial being... non-judgemental, compassionate, intelligent, humorous, respectful, endowed with infinite optimism and joie de vivre and the ability to make everyone feel they’re worth more than a billion dollars. One of the 2008 OE riders, Neil van Steenbergen, is one such rare being. And for the past 18 days we were indeed a fortunate and privileged group. His free spirited, curious and enthusiastic approach to living seems to be his secret to ensuring that every moment of every day is an adventure. And every adventure has a story. At 81 years old, with many wise and wonderful stories to share, he is inspiration and joy personified. Neil had an accident on the road yesterday just outside Passau, Germany, and is sadly unable to continue with us onto Istanbul. A few days ago, we asked him if he’d share his impressions with us on his journey so far.... his thoughts follow on from this. We miss him and his smile ... and wish him ‘au revoir’, a speedy recovery and many, many more glorious adventures. Vignettes - Paris to Istanbul. By Neil van Steenbergen. 15 June 2008 About 20 k out of Chaumont on Rainy Day Five in France, a young snail crawled onto the top of my handle bars and seemed quite content to be an observer for a while. After a bit I gently picked him off and dropped him in the grass by the road, having no idea why I assumed that snail was a male. I knew it was one of the hoard of snails and slugs on my tent and bike after two wet days of camping in Chaumont. I was happy. So, I think, was my travelling handlebar partner. I smile a lot on this 50 day 4000 km ride from Paris to Istanbul. That playfulness of riding my bike with our group on June 1st – the best deal Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower, Seine River, Arc de Triomphe and then getting totally, absolutely lost between Paris and Provins. We had been cautioned about being occasionally lost – but to get lost before lunch on Day One takes some sort of prize which I still haven’t collected! There is an ease about this group. A genuine support and acceptance, a rhythm and flow. We seem to like each other. The staff is extraordinary. I’ve made some friends here that will be lifelong. And I smile. It’s rained a lot. Tents are wet almost every morning and it’s not that big a deal. The country side is magnificent – red poppies, farms and fields, champagne country in France, picturesque villages, some with maypoles to dance around. A major day of rain riding into a wet field in Xertigny, a small town in eastern France, Duncan performs miracles and gets us inside accommodation inside a town hall where we can’t wear muddy shoes because of a big party the next night and the floor has just been waxed. So we hang wet tents around the edges and have a kind of slumber party. After falling off unstable three -legged camp stools at meals two days in a row, I was a recipient of a four legged camp chair with a back and it is heavenly. The staff got three other comparable chairs for the three other oldest riders. Everybody knows I’m really responsible for this largesse and I take full credit and offer to rent my chair out occasionally. I smile a lot. I talk with people – staff, riders and locals. Theresa, a white South African staff woman, and I talked this morning about some of the results of years of apartheid in South Africa – the rage and feelings of entitlement on the part of many black South Africans (“We want no less than an apology”) and the resistance and defensiveness on the part of many white South Africans (“We didn’t do it. It was before our time”) reminds me of the work on white privilege that I am doing in Oregon. I am sitting on the steps of the great church in Regensburg, Germany, writing in the sun and watching people on the Dom Plaz take pictures of me. I suppose they may want the Dom in the background as well. I smile a lot. I am in exactly the right place in my life. Life is good. And I am content.

Guten tag! So far... We have just begun our first and only five day riding week from amazing, quaint and medieval Regensburg to Vienna, Austria. Since starting on June 1, with a sightseeing convoy lap around Paris, taking in the top attractions including the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe, we were another 5 days in France which went by somewhat quickly, rolling into Germany, country #2, which we are in for the longest time- being 12 days. Beautiful country side, lush woodland and forests, we are now alongside the mighty Danube river on cycle-only trails, which is peaceful and scenic offering many opportunities for coffee and pastry stops mixed with the odd wrong turn! Cool weather making for ideal conditions is what we’ve been experiencing, but as we approach the east of Europe the mercury is set to rise as are the daily challenges of travelling in some vastly different but rapidly advancing cultures and societies. Guten fahrad reise! - Duncan Jerard

We had a rest day and a half as today we rode a mere 60 km from Regensburg to Straubing. The group has grown accustomed to riding an average of 100 km per day rain or shine, so this brief day is a nice treat and a welcome change. They all seem relaxed and content and I can’t help but smirk a little when I think of the challenges they have ahead. Unlike our expedition through Africa, where things start tough and rugged and slowly become more comfortable as you progress to Cape Town, the Orient Express starts in the western comforts of France, Germany, and Austria, where we cycle into places like Straubing – the cycleway at the main entrance and a full service bike shop a 5 minute walk away, and a grocery store across the street. This will all change in eastern Europe where amenities are fewer and further between, where people and cars are less familiar with cyclists and how they behave on the roadways. Where the campsites and hotels don’t necessarily match up to what we have experienced so far. The roads are rougher, the mountains are taller, and it’s likely to be damn hot as well. But, all that aside, eastern Europe for me holds much more interest and exoticism. These are places that seemed to have not changed in hundreds of years. These are exciting places that force us out of our comforts of western living and into something slightly different. We will see isolated farming villages, urban sprawl, skyscrapers and the beautiful Black Sea Coast. We will experience the remnants of a communist past and the warmth of the Muslim peoples of Turkey. Stay tuned...

Rest day duties done, I set off in the late afternoon to explore downtown New Ulm, just a few blocks away from the hotel. I didn not manage to get to the pile of rocks in Ulm, on the other side of the river, that apparently marks the spot of the now non-existent home in which Einstein first saw the light of day, but breathing in the same air that he once did was good enough for me. The elegant, moody spire of the Ulm cathedral (apparently the highest cathedral spire in the world) dominates the skyline and exudes a strange magnetism. Dark and mystical, inside and out, its towering proportions evoked in me what I suspect was the intended effect of 16th century Christianity – “You insignificant thing!” I crept quietly up to one of the dirgey side alters to light a few candles and, for just a moment, the clouds parted and the late afternoon sunshine poured in through the magnificent stained glass work set in the massive arched windows. It was breathtaking and I had to respect the creativity and ingenuity of those old time architects and artisans who put the whole show together. Must-do touristy stuff done, I set off to lose myself down the cobbled streets and alley ways, appreciating the way in which 20th century development has been considerately woven into the tapestry this 16th century city.... and wondering all the while if Einstein had walked here...eaten there... The soundtrack to my afternoon stroll was a loud, quadraphonic roar. Soccer fever is rampant across the Germany and judging by the howls of despair emanating from the television audiences packed into every bar, cafe and restaurant in Ulm, Croatia was clearly thumping the Germans in an all important European Cup match. With beer being cheaper than any other beverage in Germany, I settled down with a tall one and a kebab to watch the passing parade before heading back to the hotel to prepare for the three day stretch ahead of us to Regensburg. Mostly overcast with the odd shower here and there, we’ve had three days of perfect cycling weather from Ulm to Regensburg. Gentle tail winds, a good mix of gravel and paved surfaces, pristine forests, rolling wheat fields, prolific bird life, fabulous campsites and Chef Jon’s exquisite food combinations have delighted the riders along this stretch of the Danau cycle path. A few of the riders stumbled across a medieval festival happening in Eickestadt. The locals, dressed up in medieval costumes were having a merry old time celebrating the 1100th birthday of their town and it didn’t take much to persuade the riders to get jiggy with them too! Sassy, humorous and not a little irreverent, the 2008 OE riders have taken it upon themselves to ridicule or respect one of their own each day through the passing on of the Lame Duck Award. Nimbly ‘uplifted’ by Joss from his hotel bathroom in Ulm, the little rubber duck has so far graced the handle bars of Stewart (who thought, when reading the daily direction board, that ‘Zig Zag’ was the name of town) and John (who cycled 10 kms out of the campsite to find Liz a bottle of wine, not realising that he could have bought one at the campsite shop) Today we are at rest in the 2000 year old city of Regensburg...a somewhat mind blowing experience for someone coming from South Africa, where the oldest surviving building is the 400 year old fort built by the Dutchies in Cape Town. With over 1200 historic buildings clustered together in the centre, the ‘City of Towers’ is a Unesco world heritage site. Particularly characteristic are the mansions built by rich patrician families who traded with cities as far away as Kiev in the east and Venice in the south who proudly displayed their wealth to all by building great houses with towers rising high into the sky. Dating back to Roman times, it’s all ancient, old stone work, quaint cobbled streets, churches, museums, theatres and concert halls reflecting in the waters of the Danube river. It’s also home to 20 000 university students, the current Pope, the oldest music academy in the world, a flourishing artistic community and it prides itself on innovative products that come out of the biotechnical research done here. Rest day duties done and dusted, camera charged up, I’m heading off to explore. With Germany playing Austria, I predict loud, raucous revellry in the ‘City of Dreams’ tonight.

One internet site I recently visited summed it up quite well, I thought. Germany has had a seminal impact on Continental history. From Charlemagne and the Holy Roman Empire to Otto von Bismarck's German Reich, Nazism and the rise and fall of the Berlin Wall, no other nation has moulded Europe the way Germany has - for better or worse. Upon discovering their amazing cycle pathways, superb beer, and the fact that someone switched the sun back on in Freiburg, I grudgingly came to terms with leaving France! As we crossed the Rhine river and entered the Federal Republic of Germany, it became immediately evident that things were different. While the French landscape sprawls out haphazardly like a beautiful, languid lover at rest, the Germans, bless them, seem to like things a little more ordered and regimented. Not that it is not beautiful. The wooded forests, hills, rivers, valleys and charming towns are breath-taking, in a picture post card perfect sort of way. But haphazard or languid it is not! There is a place for everything and everything is in its place, it seems. I watched a man with a garbage trolley outside our hotel this morning, wielding what looked like a long pair of tweezers. He disdainfully picked up a leaf that had fallen onto the ground and disposed of it immediately. Into the bag marked ‘Leaves’, I have no doubt. No place for garbage, dirt or anything unsanitary in this here place. One of the riders told me that as she stood up to flush the toilet, it immediately started cleaning itself! So the German hoteliers dig really deep when 42 grimy, rain sodden cyclists bumble into their pristine lobbies. Our first stop in Germany, which included a rest day, was the eco-conscious university city of Freiburg – which generates nearly as much solar power as the whole of Britain. Philip Moeller, a native of Freiburg who worked on the Silk Route Expedition as bike mechanic last year, met up with us for dinner, lots of laughs and reminiscing and a night time walk about the city. Medieval buildings, cobbled stones, bars, bicycles everywhere... it’s laid back, congenial and home to over 20 000 students. Along with the beer, one of the things the Germans have certainly got right are their cycle paths. Away from the traffic and the autobahns, the Danube Cycle Way, which starts in Donaueschingen at the source of the Danube River, stretches for 1400 km all the way to Budapest. For the past two days, the riders have been meandering past celestial castles and through the wooded forests and quaint villages that nestle along the banks of the Danube. Every few kilometres, there is a little cafe or restaurant to stop in at for coffee and cake. Cyclists, pedestrians and locals are all out and about on the path which makes every moment on it an adventure. It’s relatively well sign posted, but even so, a few of the riders have done more than a few extra k’s a day as they’ve taken a ‘wrong’ turn here or there. Today we are in the city of Ulm... the birthplace of Einstein. We are whizzing through our rest day duties so that we can get out and explore what looks like a most fascinating town, with 16th century architecture, old bridges and some interesting artwork. While we say a big welcome to Lesley and Charles Hughes from South Africa who joined us in Donaueschingen, we say a sad farewell to Marilyn and Murray McCraig from Canada. Marilyn broke her ankle yesterday between Sigmaringen and Ulm. Wishing you a safe trip home, guys. We will miss you.