Leaving Regensburg we enjoyed one of the shortest days of the Tour. At just 52km it’s only a few pedal strokes to reach Straubing.  On a previous visit to this small city, Germanys’ second largest beer festival was ongoing and in town massive tents filled with beer satiated Germans swayed to the raucous tunes inside.  This year the town was more laid back and we enjoyed one of our hottest days of the whole trip, this inspired people to either relax around the camp or cycle into town to see what the locals were up to.

After this it was a string of 4 days all around 100km-115km.   The majority of each day was spent on the Danube cycle way.  As we approached and then entered Austria, our third country of the trip, the banks of the river grow steeper and steeper making the scenery that much more striking.  As well the boat traffic picks up considerably with many passenger boats going up and down the river.  In fact from Passau, Germany a few of our cyclists decided to take the boat to Linz, Austria.  Apparently they had quite an interesting time and enjoyed the different perspective that gliding along the river provides. 

Our campsite in Linz is right by a small lake and is usually great for swimming, however the weather was still a bit rainy so it didn’t prove to be a popular option.  One incident of note was that as I drove into Austria it was immediately apparent that no stores were open anywhere in the country; this was due to an undetermined holiday.  I must say for all the grief Germans (and some Austrians) give the Greeks about not working hard enough and forgetting to pay taxes it seems that every other day in Germany/Austria is a holiday (which I must say is a great idea) Anyways I was told by a German hotel worker that when it isn’t a holiday everyone works at 300% effort, most likely to make up for working 0%, 50% of the time.

We are now in Vienna.  As one of the worlds’ great cultural cities you can’t walk for more than 500 metres without bumping into a museum.  Today I can report having visiting the Natural History Museum.  Let me tell you the giant Wooly Mammoth is kind of scary, once you get over that though you could easily spend a whole day there learning about parasites, caving, ostriches, ancient pottery or space toys from the 1960s’ in no particular order.

After another rest day tomorrow we are off for the beautiful city of Bratislava, where we spend one night before cycling into Hungary the following day… It should be noted we have said goodbye to 4 of our sectional riders at this point.  Noah and Laura in Ulm, Germany and just now in Vienna Alf and Evelyn of South Africa.  Luckily for us we have 5 more sectional riders joining us here in Vienna and we’re all excited to meet up with them and share the exciting times ahead.

So until then have a great time wherever you are and if you have the opportunity spend a day with friends/family cycling around aimlessly!

p.s. In the last blog I referred to Francois as Francoise.  This was a mistake as Francoise is the feminine version of his name.  Francois after a few difficult days has forgiven me.

This is my third time doing the Orient Express trip and each time I find the Bavarian people peculiar, in a very pleasant way of course.  It’s the only place in Germany I’ve seen where you can witness someone walking down the street in traditional dress (imagine a costume that blends a classic waitress uniform and a wizards’ robe, minus the spell casting wand) My favorite though is the old German game of “How high can you pull up your pants”, of course with the sturdy suspenders available today the game can become dangerous at times.  

Some of the oldest breweries in the world have their home in this German province and the people are more than proud of the fact.  Beer is king here and it’s a perfect accompaniment to the local roast pork knuckle.  You don’t see so many non-European Tourists in the area but let me tell you there should be, as there are many similarities to other cultures.  In some ways it’s like the southern U.S., it would not be shocking at all to see a small wooden raft floating on the Danube with a bunch of banjo players on board.   

Back to some news about the ride from Ulm to Regensburg, where we are currently enjoying a rest day in the heart of the old city…  We stuck to the Danube cycle way on our first day out of Ulm to Eggelstetten, this day once again provided warm and dry riding conditions.  Our meal that night in camp was Ricotta Tortellini with Arugula Pesto and skewered Pork and Beef barbecued on our new gas grill.  At camp people compared the distances on their cycle computers, as with the many options available on the trail it seems no two people ever cycle the exact same route, though somehow the distances are usually close to each other.  

The next 2 days to Regensburg we decided to leave the Danube for a taste of another of Germanys myriad cycling trails, the Altmuhltal trail.  This took us to the very scenic town of Kipfenburg; a UNESCO world heritage site due to the ancient limestone trade which took place in the area.  However few riders had the time/energy to explore the town as most of the day was spent in an unseasonably cold rain.  Francoise, the fastest Quebec cyclist on Tour, even stopped in a local church to warm his hands over the burning candles inside.  The rain didn’t let up till just before dinner and made us all wish we were cycling in a greenhouse.  



The day into Regensburg was spent on the Altmuhltal trail until reaching the Danube again in the town of Kelheim and then turning east towards Regensburg.  The day went smoothly with some scattered showers but nothing like the downpour of the previous day.  Most of the cyclists had dinner in Regensburg with our 2 German guests, Mark and Nadine, who are leaving back to their home in Hamburg later today.  Everyone enjoyed a classic Bavarian feast!  

Our next stretch is 5 days of cycling to Vienna.  There are some great towns on route like Passau, Germany and Linz, Austria.  We will stick to the Danube pretty much the whole way.  Till then, happy trails.

Well we finally had a day where no one was rained on.  It’s been a Tour full of rain showers up till this point but the temperatures are getting warmer and warmer and before long we’ll be longing for the cooler days as we hide in the shade from the sun.   Our first day out of Freiburg included a 9km climb that once again everyone tackled with panache.  Riding on mostly rural roads with forests and small towns scattered along the route the cyclists arrived at Donaueschigan, which is the location of the Danube Rivers’ source. From here of course is also the start of the “Donauradweg”, the Danube cycle trail.    

This is also the point where we begin seeing many other cycle tourists.  The main difference is they are carrying panniers with their camping gear, cooking equipment, clothes etc…  I heard one of our cyclists mention they felt guilty passing them so quickly, as without the extra weight of carrying gear the journey is much easier, relatively speaking.  They didn’t look too serious when they said this though so I’m guessing the feeling doesn’t last long.  Regardless of how you cycle the Danube it is a beautiful ride and one every passionate cyclist should do at some point in their lives.  

Ulm has been a pleasant stop.  Much like Freiburg it is a relaxed city with great restaurants and of course the worlds tallest church steeple.  Our hotel is right by the river, the bike path, and a short walk to the center.  Hopefully everyone will be feeling well rested and excited for our next stint of 3 days to the city of Regensburg.  We’ll be continuing on bike paths for the most part and a few rolling hills along the way.    

Sitting in the hotel room looking out the 5^th floor window at the sunny skies and densely forested surroundings of Freiburg it’s not hard to see the beautiful possibilities for cycling in the area.  Many years ago I participated in a bicycle stage race here and I remember clearly the steep winding hills and the melodic sound of cowbells ringing in the heavy, foggy weather in the Black Forest.  Great memories but I think the part about gasping for oxygen and the pain in my legs seems to have faded.

Luckily our journey out of Freiburg does not include many of those hills (only 1 of 9km; still a big test) after that we will find ourselves on the Danube cycle trail the majority of the time till Bratislava.

Let’s look back at the last few days of cycling on the Orient Express. From Troyes the cyclists did an amazing job of cycling one of the longest days of the Tour at what ended up being 140km.  Our resident fast guy Chris Willie was in early, but even the last few riders were into camp with time to spare before dinner. 

The last 2 cyclists arrived on different bikes than they’d had the day before.  This was due to their bicycles being stolen from the hotels parking garage the previous night.  The 2 cyclists in question had an extremely calm and realistic attitude about the situation and I think because of that the issue resolved itself with relative ease.  The hotels’ insurance picked up the cost of their new bikes, which were purchased in Troyes that morning, and amazingly by 11:00am they were cycling the days route.  Hats off to them!

Our next day to Plombieres les Bains was a whole new route and destination for the Orient Express and one which will be a keeper.  The route was on quiet roads through the French countryside and finished with about 15km through a forest alongside a quickly running stream.  Plombieres les Bains is a striking town devoted to tourism since the time of Roman occupation; the famed thermal baths have been visited by everyone from Montaigne, Voltaire, and Napoleon Bonaparte to thousands of Europeans seeking solace in the restorative waters.  I don’t believe any of our cyclists ventured into the baths but hopefully they enjoyed the town before climbing the few kilometers to our camp overlooking the river valley. Munster was our next destination and this included the climb of the Col de Schluct.  About 10km of total climbing spread out over 15kms, it’s a big test and one that every cyclist on the Tour succeeded at.  This was followed by a quite chilly descent into

Munster, the city blessed with the famous Munster cheese.  It’s easy to notice that this province of Alsace has passed back and forth between Germans and French over the last few centuries.  While still in France many store fronts have German names and the architecture is more similar to the towns on the eastern side of the Rhine.

Today we have a rest day in Freiburg and the pace is slow (as it’s Sunday and tomorrow is a holiday) Cyclists are out exploring the town and tasting the local delicacies, the staff is checking out the route from Freiburg for the next day and sorting through other logistics.   Hmmm… I think it’s time for a bratwurst and Bavarian beer!

The Orient Express cycle tour across Europe from the Western cultural capitals to the magic and exotic beauty of the Orient continues as we pedal our way from France into Germany and the dark emerald gem of the Black Forest region around Freiberg.



The Romans called the area Silva Nigra because the dense growth of conifers in the forest block out most of the light inside the forest. And besides being some of the world’s prettiest and best-preserved forests, the region also produces some of the world’s best quality wood products.

Although none but the most intrepid of us will be able to transport any of them on our bicycles, we’ll all be able to indulge wholeheartedly in some of the region’s other international delights – which can be smugly transported in a blissful belly: black forest ham and black forest cake!



From here we cycle for a day to Donaueschingen, renowned as the source of the mighty Danube River – the second longest river in the EU. Along its banks, the intrepid bicycle-loving Europeans have created the Danube Cycleway – over 1300km of dedicated bicycle paths from here in Bavaria through to Budapest in Hungary.

It was great minds that devised this cycle path and soon we’ll pedal our way to the birthplace of one of the greatest minds of all time – Ulm: the town that birthed Albert Einstein. In celebration of this marvelous man perhaps, as we cycle into town, we should remove our helmets and pedal at a rapid speed so as to try mimic and salute his flamboyant hairdo!


From big hairs to big prayers: the town is home to the tallest church in the world with a steeple measuring 160.9 m.

With memories of the jewels of Germany fresh in our minds, we cycle onwards towards Austria!



The Orient Express Bicycle Expedition starts in Paris on 5th June and finishes in Istanbul on 24 July.

It meanders through France, Germany, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria and Turkey.

It can be cycled as a full tour, or in sections.

Click here for more info on the route.

Click here to register

After leaving France, our team of riders have hardly left Germany's many bicycle paths. These cycleways offer a welcome reprieve from the challenges of sharing the road with cars and trucks that fly past at speeds far greater than ours. These paths offer a new sort of challenge -- the paths are often very busy and packed with other riders, pedestrians, swarms of insects, mud, and gravel. At least once, the rough gravel has caused a rider to fall off of their bike and bite the dust. In spite of the hazards, each and every day along our route has been wonderful.

Our route largely follows the beautiful Danube River that begins in the town of Donaueschingen and flows eastward from a natural spring called the Donauquelle. We follow the designated paths that correspond to this river all the way to Bratislava, Slovakia; however, the ride from Eggelstetten to Kipfenberg and on to Regensburg changed things up a little bit when we instead followed the Altmühltal cycle path that follows the flow of the river of the same name. This allowed us to enjoy a number of Germany's beautiful forests, small villages, farms, and even the occasional flea market.

We have been fortunate to have had incredibly beautiful weather along the way. The crisp, clean air and bright sunlight have made each day a real joy. In fact, we've had to leave camp in a downpour only once -- and the rain cleared up before noon. Let's hope that we continue to be so lucky on our journey east.

The great meals that Hatice and Miles provide offer the perfect incentive for us riders to make it to lunch and dinner. Adam, Mark, and Paul from Nova Scotia, whom we collectively call the "Jackrabbits" because they leave in the morning at lightning speeds to make it back to camp early. What's the rush guys? Maybe they're just hungry and are eagerly awaiting the next meal. The rest of us tend to ride together, and we also tend to make frequent stops. In the morning we scout out a nice bakery or café for a cup of coffee or hot chocolate and a little snack. In the afternoon we often make another stop. This time it's for something cooler, like an ice cream cone or a tall glass of beer.

The time that we spend together when we aren't riding has been just as enjoyable. We spend lots of time at camp getting to know one another a little better by telling stories, the occasional joke, and talking about the people that we miss back home. Besides the time that we spend on our bikes, the best part of every day is the chance to explore the new places that the tour brings us. Now we're enjoying a well deserved rest day in Regensburg before we head back to the trail for five more days until we reach our next chance to sleep in a warm and comfortable bed in beautiful Vienna.

Perhaps the notion of comparing Bavarians to the Mackenzie Brothers is peculiar to begin with.  Firstly, for most people who have not been inducted by birth or immigration into Canadian culture, there is the question of, “Who are the Mackenzie brothers?”  Secondly, for those that are familiar with the 1980’s Canadian television program SCTV, and the Mackenzie brothers, there is the question of, “What do Bavarians have to do with a couple of beer chugging, toque wearing, plaid devoted, cold weather dwelers?”  Thirdly, for some out there, there is the question of “What are Bavarians?”   Fourthly, it’s possible that the comparison is moot.  Why?  Well, because the Mackenzie brothers were perhaps a dream, a cultural pinnacle that Canada struggled towards, along a daunting track of ambivalent cool, and subtle over-indulgence.  Where as Bavarians, may very well have achieved this state of grace.  That said, and some will certainly protest, this blissful state was reached not recently, but some centuries ago here in Bavaria.  Historical accounts are stored in hidden archives, but the evidence is in the feeling of humorous calm that still lingers in the Danube’s flow as one cycles along it’s shore, awaiting a cold beer at ride’s end.

  Hmmm… it’s been a fine introduction to Germany and Bavaria the last few days for all the O.E. cyclists.  A few chose to search out the starting point of the Danube, located in the town of Donaueshingen.  It should feel both a joy and a daunting test to begin the long journey along the rivers path.  Luckily it appears most of our riders have already become quite accustomed to the way of the Donauredwegen (the Danube cycle trail) and it’s many small, and sometimes challenging navigational signs.  There is certainly no shortage of stops along the path for coffee, tea, or some fine German cuisine, and other than one day of rain, we’ve continued to enjoy pleasant days.

  Today found us arriving in Ulm, a city both famed as Einstein’s birthplace, and for the largest church in the World, the Ulm Minster.  Conveniently, a religious holiday has fallen on our rest day, which will make for a true day of leisure, a picnic on the Danube sounds like a wonderful idea to me.  Happy cycling.  Coookookookokokokooo

Once or twice in a lifetime, if you are fortunate, you come into the presence of a human being who seems to possess, with such grace and ease, the attributes of a celestial being... non-judgemental, compassionate, intelligent, humorous, respectful, endowed with infinite optimism and joie de vivre and the ability to make everyone feel they’re worth more than a billion dollars. One of the 2008 OE riders, Neil van Steenbergen, is one such rare being. And for the past 18 days we were indeed a fortunate and privileged group. His free spirited, curious and enthusiastic approach to living seems to be his secret to ensuring that every moment of every day is an adventure. And every adventure has a story. At 81 years old, with many wise and wonderful stories to share, he is inspiration and joy personified. Neil had an accident on the road yesterday just outside Passau, Germany, and is sadly unable to continue with us onto Istanbul. A few days ago, we asked him if he’d share his impressions with us on his journey so far.... his thoughts follow on from this. We miss him and his smile ... and wish him ‘au revoir’, a speedy recovery and many, many more glorious adventures. Vignettes - Paris to Istanbul. By Neil van Steenbergen. 15 June 2008 About 20 k out of Chaumont on Rainy Day Five in France, a young snail crawled onto the top of my handle bars and seemed quite content to be an observer for a while. After a bit I gently picked him off and dropped him in the grass by the road, having no idea why I assumed that snail was a male. I knew it was one of the hoard of snails and slugs on my tent and bike after two wet days of camping in Chaumont. I was happy. So, I think, was my travelling handlebar partner. I smile a lot on this 50 day 4000 km ride from Paris to Istanbul. That playfulness of riding my bike with our group on June 1st – the best deal Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower, Seine River, Arc de Triomphe and then getting totally, absolutely lost between Paris and Provins. We had been cautioned about being occasionally lost – but to get lost before lunch on Day One takes some sort of prize which I still haven’t collected! There is an ease about this group. A genuine support and acceptance, a rhythm and flow. We seem to like each other. The staff is extraordinary. I’ve made some friends here that will be lifelong. And I smile. It’s rained a lot. Tents are wet almost every morning and it’s not that big a deal. The country side is magnificent – red poppies, farms and fields, champagne country in France, picturesque villages, some with maypoles to dance around. A major day of rain riding into a wet field in Xertigny, a small town in eastern France, Duncan performs miracles and gets us inside accommodation inside a town hall where we can’t wear muddy shoes because of a big party the next night and the floor has just been waxed. So we hang wet tents around the edges and have a kind of slumber party. After falling off unstable three -legged camp stools at meals two days in a row, I was a recipient of a four legged camp chair with a back and it is heavenly. The staff got three other comparable chairs for the three other oldest riders. Everybody knows I’m really responsible for this largesse and I take full credit and offer to rent my chair out occasionally. I smile a lot. I talk with people – staff, riders and locals. Theresa, a white South African staff woman, and I talked this morning about some of the results of years of apartheid in South Africa – the rage and feelings of entitlement on the part of many black South Africans (“We want no less than an apology”) and the resistance and defensiveness on the part of many white South Africans (“We didn’t do it. It was before our time”) reminds me of the work on white privilege that I am doing in Oregon. I am sitting on the steps of the great church in Regensburg, Germany, writing in the sun and watching people on the Dom Plaz take pictures of me. I suppose they may want the Dom in the background as well. I smile a lot. I am in exactly the right place in my life. Life is good. And I am content.

Guten tag! So far... We have just begun our first and only five day riding week from amazing, quaint and medieval Regensburg to Vienna, Austria. Since starting on June 1, with a sightseeing convoy lap around Paris, taking in the top attractions including the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe, we were another 5 days in France which went by somewhat quickly, rolling into Germany, country #2, which we are in for the longest time- being 12 days. Beautiful country side, lush woodland and forests, we are now alongside the mighty Danube river on cycle-only trails, which is peaceful and scenic offering many opportunities for coffee and pastry stops mixed with the odd wrong turn! Cool weather making for ideal conditions is what we’ve been experiencing, but as we approach the east of Europe the mercury is set to rise as are the daily challenges of travelling in some vastly different but rapidly advancing cultures and societies. Guten fahrad reise! - Duncan Jerard