“To our good memories and plans!”  That was the eighth or ninth toast of the night from our local guide Zaza.  We were at a local restaurant in Tblisi eating some of the most delicious food I’ve had in long time.  The meal consisted of six or seven courses starting with bread and salads then cheeses and moving on to dumplings, 3 kinds of Kebap, chicken, and finally homemade ice cream.  I was really hungry when we sat down so I began eating salad and bread voraciously when Zaza explained me I must go “slowly slowly” there was much more to come.  In addition to the many plates of food there were two kinds of local wine, local beer and of course, vodka on the table.  The Georgians have a tradition of toasting that is unparalleled in my experience.  Usually the oldest man at the table leads the toasts.  They progress in a particular order.  Starting with a toast to our ancestors, then our families, then our countries.  Then, after that warm feeling has thoroughly settle into your being the toast become more personal and more elaborate.  When it comes to enjoying food and drink the Georgians are true professionals.  

Our entry into Georgia was fairly easy.  The Georgian government is very pro-west (one of the reasons they fought a war with the Russians in 2008) so we didn’t even need visas.  Initially the roads from the border were very rough and it looked like it was going to be a long day.  But after only 15 or 20 kms the rough dirt turned o pavement and the rough, rocky, mountains of Turkey are transformed into the lush rolling green hills that characterize this part of Georgia.  The weather was warm, the breeze that was blowing was cool as we began to follow the Kura  river towards Tblisi.  

Georgia has been a wonderful surprise.  From the border we passed thru very rural areas where people live primarily as farmers and shepherds.  There is a large Armenian population in this part of the country and Russian is as common a language as Georgian.  Talking to one of our local support guides, Dato, who works as an archeologist at the national museum I learned so many fascinating things about the country.  Georgia was the setting of Jason and the Argonauts quest for the golden fleece, the oldest human remains found outside of Africa were discovered here (2.5 million BC), Christianity first came here in 400 AD, there are 27,000 rivers in Georgia…. The list was endless and made for great conversation on our drives to lunch every day.   Dato is obviously very proud of his county (as he should be) and continually in our conversations he would bring up the countries desire for peace and a stable democratic government.  The current president has apparently made great progress towards those ends by reforming the police, improving infrastructure and encouraging tourism.  But Georgia is a small country that shares a historical and cultural history with Iran, Russia, and Turkey and too often in its past the hunger for other nations to expand their boundaries have negatively impacted its progress and growth. 

Arriving in Tblisi we found a completely different Georgia.  Split into two parts, the old city and the new, Tblisi is pumping with energy.   Everywhere you look the city is being renovated.  From new pedestrian malls to cultural centers and the rehabilitation of 14^th century churches the city is improving at a rapid pace. It’s an attractive city (and not just because of Georgian women) and an easy city to walk around.  There are public art installations everywhere and dozens of cafes, art shops and stores lining the cobbled streets in the old city.  In the new city the vibe is very different.  From freedom square (so named in 2002 when Georgians held public demonstrations there to declare their independence) west the small locally owned shops gives way to Dolce and Gabana, Versace and large commercial banks.  There are quite a few beggars on the streets, an indication that while many in Georgia have found ways to make a decent living there are still many that have not. 

I’d love to have more time to explore Tblisi, the Caucus mountains in the northwest, the wine county in the east and the deserts in the south.  We spend only 5 days in country and certainly we only get a glimpse of what it has to offer.  But it’s a nice appetizer to be sure and someday I plan to come back and enjoy some more.

Due to the unexpected break out of hostilities and violence in Georgia, The Silk Route Bicycle Tour has been forced to stop short of the Georgia border and temporarily suspend the tour. Today was to be the day we were to cross into Georgia, but instead the riders are having a rest day in the Turkish town of Kars. The Riders are all safe and well and in good spirits. Tomorrow they will take a bus to Ankara, and then take a flight to Baku where the tour will re-commence on August 17. The group will then have a few days of cycling in Azerbaijan before getting on the ferry to Turkmenistan and back on schedule. We hope for a quick return to calm in Georgia – one of the most beautiful countries on our route.

We departed Tbilisi this morning in a similar fashion to our arrival, via convoy. Everyone was on their bikes and with our Georgian vehicle out in front and the riders well protected by two support trucks at the rear, the convoy moved out onto George W Bush Street (must be dead-end!) and continued up the highway towards Lagodehki, a mere 150km away. Other than the first 20km, where the traffic was streaming past us at a rate that a Formula 1 driver would be proud of, the roads were narrow and the traffic gradually thinned out. The bumps and potholes were present here and there and although it wasn’t Grand Prix Circuit material, it wasn’t altogether too rough in comparison to what the riders faced a few days ago. Some rolling hills and a decent climb were followed by a fun downhill (nice, winding, fast and offering some great views), allowing the riders to move through the towns of Manavi and Badauri, situated in some of Georgia’s wine and cheese producing areas. There were vineyards and castles to view and large blocks of cheese and delicious fresh bread available on the side of the road to sample. Lunch was provided at 80km and before they knew it, Lagodehki was on their doorstep. It is a sweet town, brushed by the northern Caucus Mountains. It is also the last town before we say farewell to Georgia and cross into to Azerbaijan. Tonight, Miles made giant kebabs, fig salad (there are fig trees lining the sidewalks in the town here) and peppers along with delicious tasting dill and beet sauces for the meat. There were a few beers, glasses of wine (thanks to the Kennedys and Henry Gold) and shots of vodka! You can probably imagine how the riders are feeling. Summed up as ‘another of the best days ever, so far’, it was a nice route to follow after a rest day. So, tomorrow we enter country number 3, a welcoming festival and the promise of a ferry crossing on the Caspian Sea as well as some awesome mountain views! Tonight, try and wipe the smiles of the cyclists tired faces. I don’t think so!

With the wind dying down overnight, the rain stopping in the wee hours of the morning and a wake up call at 6am with the promise of the day finishing in the magical city of Tbilisi, the riders didn’t need much motivation to get going early! What lay ahead was a rough, bumpy, corrugated and gravelly road under construction (they hope to have it all paved by 2010) that both riders and the trucks had to navigate safely. The EFIers, racers and others that wanted to ride the whole day were gone early, the others wanting to ride from lunch were ready to go not soon after and the whole TDA contingent were on the road by 7am. Truck speed was on average about 15 – 20km per hour and bike speed not much more, except when there was a downhill and there were a few ‘beauties’ en route. Everyone who was riding a mountain bike was grinning from ear to ear and those that were not silently cursed the bumps and rubbed their sore arms. Once again, the scenery was breathtaking and today was a day for taking photos. As we neared Tbilisi, the road started to improve and on the outskirts of the small town of Mangilisi, the riders hit what they would term ‘paradise pavement’, new asphalt so smooth the tyres glided over it. At this point the average bike and vehicle speed picked up and on the outskirts of the city was a 10km, winding downhill that was described as both ‘fun’ and ‘insane’ in the same sentence. When the downhill finished the riders met and a 20km convoy into the city began. Georgian traffic is crazy and the road rules are, well, really there are no road rules! After a few tough, cold days the riders were happy to have arrived at the delightful, very art-deco Hotel Meridiani. There was some delicious Georgian wine, a few cold beers and most riders forgot about the toughness of the last few days. In Tbilisi we say goodbye to one of sectional riders, the divine and very talented, Daphne from Holland. Thanks Daphne! We would love to have you stay longer! Tbilisi also marks the end of the Turkish Delight section with Sandra Simon taking out line honours in a total of 85 hours 41minutes. The rest day brings the normal laundry duty, some bike work, a sulphur bath (apparently it is the cleanest you will ever feel), some sightseeing, the support trucks are getting some tender loving care after the bumps of the last few days, lots of eating and drinking, some well received Georgian hospitality and preparation for the days ahead. We are really are enjoying ourselves here, just another grand day in biking heaven.

Good morning Georgia! So far, the land of low-lying clouds, mountains, gravelly bumpy roads, lada niva cars, gold teeth and biting cold winds and low temperatures and some rain! A relatively short day compared to Turkey (where our average daily distance was 150km) but the inconsistent road conditions, the off-road sections, the cold temperatures (some riders were finding it difficult to change gears this afternoon) and a delightful head wind made for a long, long day for some of the Silk Road folk! However, now that everyone is in camp, well fed, watered (with a choice of beer, wine, vodka, tea, coffee), tents up and warm clothes on, there are some smiles returning, as is the feeling in hands and the feet. Georgia, day 1, has been a mix of green farmland, stone walls, broken-down buildings, small cottages, haystacks, wet roads, donkeys, horse carts, goats, dogs galore and folks that wave and give a smile always (sometimes you get a big flash of gold as well…..it seems that gold teeth are the go here!) We have definitely moved from the first world but the friendliness and hospitality have remained. The local police, our constant companions yesterday and today, help us to find water, chop veggies at camp this afternoon, happily drink vodka and asking endless questions about people as well as telling us their life stories. Tonight, they have headed up the road to the train carriage (aka ‘bar on the lake') but will be back to make sure we remain safe and sound for the evening. Inga, our new translator, has given everyone their first lesson on Georgia, its history and some local etiquette do’s and don’ts (do say hello and don’t refuse a drink). Tomorrow brings a 140km stretch (or thereabouts) ending in the city of Tbilisi where a rest day beckons and riders are panting for access to their permanent bags so they can get some more warm clothes. The weather caught many by surprise and soup and hot drinks are popular tonight! Lake Paravoni, our campsite tonight, is magnificent and thankfully the weather has held out, giving most riders a chance to enjoy its beauty, have a brief wash, clean the mud and goo from their bikes (in preparation for tomorrow) and some were lucky enough to catch a few brief moments of sunshine to dry out damp clothes and tents. With the sounds of Eric Clapton in the air, the riders are enjoying the last moments of daylight, having a drink and a chat, getting ready for bed and making decisions about the best way to tackle tomorrow. It is a weary bunch eagerly anticipating a rest daybut hey, if you could see the view tonight, it would be fairly close to being called bike heaven!

Greetings from Georgia and our wee, sweet little campsite by the river, about 20km from the border crossing near Posof. What a fantastic day the riders and everyone had out on the road today! Awesome views, a monster climb, a mountain pass (2590m), rolling green hills, the sweetest downhill we have had since we began (15km and Estie could not wipe the smile off her face), a mammoth drop in temperature (and some of our riders were caught out without the warm goods necessary, no names to be mentioned) and a smooth border crossing into Georgia. Did I mention the amazing views????? Of course! As with most border crossings, time was of the essence so many of the riders opted to be lifted to the top of the mountain pass and ride from there. The wind was howling, the temperatures dropping and many rugged up (in whatever clothing they had), munched on egg salad and tuna sandwiches and ‘tootled’ off down the hill. The support trucks were in hot pursuit as border crossings for the vehicles are a long and drawn out affair some days. The EFIers and others who had opted to depart from our bush camp and ride the whole way came through mid-morning, happy to see the top of the hill, get some food and head toward the border, a mere 30km away. The last person to conquer the mammoth morning climb was the newest addition to our cycling family, Bill Dodds, and his main quest is to keep cycling and not be transported by vehicle anywhere. Welcome Bill! By mid-afternoon, the thunder clouds had rolled in and swallowed up the border crossing in a downpour and the 5 or so riders still out on the roads were engulfed in a nice shower. This on top of dodging ‘rider eating’ dogs and getting splattered in muck as the roads turned to a muddy, wet cycle path along the route to the campsite. The roads so far, in Georgia, have been rougher than Turkey, a mixture of gravel and asphalt with a few corregations and potholes thrown in. A few riders are hoping to change tyres tonight as tomorrow brings more bumps, more dirt roads and more rough stuff. The mountain bikers in the group are grinning! While the rain had settled in for a few hours this evening (throughout the rider meeting and then dinner), by the time the group had hit their tents for some sweet dreaming and shut-eye, the clouds had disappated and the stars were out. The herds of cattle had moved through, the mountain dogs stopped barking and for many riders, dreams of Turkey and their new country, Georgia, had begun. So, as we spend the night in our special little campsite, bike heaven continues in country number two…