The riders are now getting ready to depart Arusha, Tanzania, after the 3 day “safari” break which marks the mid-way point of the Tour. The latest race results, through Stage 47, have been posted and these include:

Section 3 “Meltdown Madness” Final Standings
Men
1.        Frans Smit, Netherlands -  65:16
2.        Stuart Briggs, Australia -  66:51
3.        Tim Thomas, USA - 68:35
Women
1.        Gisela Gartmair, Germany - 71:45
2.        Juliana Austin-Olsen, Canada -  77:23
3.        Lynne Wolfson, Canada -  87:59  

Overall Standings (excluding Grace Days)
Men
1.        Frans Smit, Netherlands -  208:10
2.        Stuart Briggs, Australia - 214:59
3.        Tim Thomas, USA - 224:49
Women
1.        Gisela Gartmair, Germany - 227:17
2.        Juliana Austin-Olsen, Canada - 234:42
3.        Jennifer Crake, Canada - 296:43  

The overall, sectional and stage by stage results can always be viewed here: http://www.tourdafrique.com/races/tourdafrique/race-results/2010/overall#t  

Overview:
 
Tanzanian food will seem very similar to Kenya – simple and filling with ubiquitous mounds of ugali continuing to play a starring role. And while it’s true that a lot of Tanzanian cuisine is typical to what you’ll find throughout all of East Africa, there are subtle regional differences.
 
The left hand rule still applies…and food coma-inducing dishes slathered in oil and salt feature prominently; starchy fillers like corn, rice, millet and sorghum join beans, over-cooked vegetables (mboga) and occasionally grilled meat (nyama choma) once again.
 
Bananas (ndizi) and their starchy green relative the plantain are a huge part of the diet. Plantains are almost like a potato here, and can be grilled, boiled, mashed up or deep-fried.
 
Like Kenya, the diet features varying degrees of Indian and Arab influence, particularly on the coast where coconut milk and exotic spices get more play. In most large cities excellent Indian food and restaurants are common.
 
Agriculture is the foundation of the Tanzanian economy, employing about 80 per cent of the country. About 70 percent of crops are cultivated by hand with nothing more than a hoe! Stunning fields of golden sunflowers are a major export and one of the most important oilseed crops in Tanzania. Sunflowers are prized for their adaptability to a variety of environments. The edible oil is used for cooking, while the leftover “cake” is used for livestock feed.
 
Pregnant women in Tanzania are said to practice geophagy (gee-off-ah-gee) – which in the plainest of terms, means they eat dirt. Soil or clay is considered a dietary supplement and is craved by many expectant mothers. The dirt is either purchased from drug stores or carefully harvested from natural sources.
 
Staple Foods:
 
Aside from Ugali and Nyama Choma…white rice or Wali is more common here than in Kenya.
 
Corn/Mahindi: Whether ground into flavourless ugali paste, roasted on charcoal and eaten off the cob, or mixed into side dishes and stews in its kernel form, corn is a cheap and important food staple.
 
Maharage: Maharage are red kidney beans, often cooked with onions, garlic and oil.
 
Cassava: The cassava root is a carbohydrate powerhouse and has become an important staple in the Tanzanian diet. Mouth-drying grilled cassava root is a common street food. The green leaves can be eaten too.
 
Mchicha: Mchicha is a popular curried delight combining spinach, peanuts and coconut into a creamy side dish.
 
Pilau: Pilau combines white basmati rice with fragrant spices like cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, pepper and cloves. Pilau is especially popular on the coast and at community celebrations.
 
Uji: A nutritious breakfast porridge made with millet.

Chai: Chai is the hot beverage of choice once again, loaded with sugar and sipped with a side of chapati. Despite large coffee plantations on the lower slopes of Mt. Kilimanjaro, you may struggle to find a decent cup of coffee in Tanzania. Instant disappointment is served in most restaurants.
 
For banana and plantain enthusiasts, you’ve hit the jackpot. Here are a few notable dishes springing forth from the loins of the banana tree (which is actually a herb…but that’s another story):
 
Mtori: One of the many Tanzanian plantain dishes. This time mashing them up with cooked beef.
 
Ndizi na Nyama: meat and plantain stew made with coconut milk and tomatoes.
 
Ndizi Kaanga:  Fried bananas or plantains.
 
Street Foods/Snacks:
 
Chapati, samosas, maandazi donuts and roasted cobs of corn make another appearance along with some distinctly Tanzania street grub.
 
Chips & Chips Mahai: Chips Mayai translates to “chip-eggs” in Swahili and is served at nearly every food stand in Tanzania. Chips are thrown into a shallow frying pan, drenched with beaten eggs and tomatoes and served up like a deliciously greasy, gut-busting frittata
 
Kitumbua/Vitumbua: Tasty fried rice cakes, eaten warm with Chai. The cakes are made with rice, yeast, coconut and cardamom and can be made in special pan with six to seven shallow holes. (Kitumbua and vitumbua is the same thing – “Vi” is plural in Swahili, while “Ki” is singular).
 
Fruit:
 
Tanzania’s markets are bursting with fruit goodness: coconut, bananas, watermelon, guava, avocado, mangoes, pawpaws/papaya, citrus fruits, passion fruit, tree tomatoes/tamarillo, and custard apples/sweetsops/sugar apples.
 
Beer/Alcohol:
 
Beer drinking is popular in Tanzania. Locally produced brands include the pale blond Kilimanjaro Beer, Kibo Gold and Serengeti Lager.
 
Konyagi:  Konyagi is a Tanzanian specialty. A 35% clear alcohol spirit made from sugarcane. It’s not vodka; it’s not gin. I’m not entirely sure what it is but its makers claim it “Embodies the carefree, fun-loving nature of all Tanzanians and is truly “The Spirit of the Nation.” Sold.
 
Afrikoko: A Tanzanian-made liquor made with chocolate and coconuts.
 
Mbege: For centuries Tanzania’s Chagga people have been making Mbege - a traditional homemade beer made from bananas and millet.
 
Tipping: Tipping etiquette varies depending on where you are eating, but aside from Safari experiences tipping is not expected in small local restaurants and food stands, and in rural areas. But in major cities and tourist areas tips are expected. High-end restaurants will include a service charge on the bill; otherwise ten percent is a good rule of thumb.
 
-Allison Barnes

Today is the first day of the three day break in Arusha. Many riders have now spent their first day seeing the amazing wildlife inside the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. Hopefully having taken better photos than the one above.

This halfway stop on the tour is a chance for staff and riders to take a deep breath and stop thinking about their bikes and the challenges ahead - at least for a brief moment. And there are challenges ahead.

The rough roads and potential for more rain through Tanzania, the heat and humidity in Malawi and Zambia, the long days in Botswana, the dunes and the dirt in Namibia, and the home stretch into Cape Town.

Here's some further reading...

Tim Thomas' latest entry from Arusha on injuries, Obama, and Mt. Kilimanjaro.

Alexander Shanny's post from last year recapping her journey into the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater.

Erik Dobrovolsky's post from last year recounting the events of a challenging day just a few days south of Arusha.

Stay tuned, there is more adventures to come.

The riders said a fond farewell to Kenya this morning and crossed the border into Tanzania, where they will enjoy three very well deserved rest days in Arusha.  While they change gears and wind down for a while, we've posted a few recent excerpts from some of the riders' blogs.

“I checked that Orion’s belt is now upside down, just to confirm that all is as it should be and that the ‘Equator’ sign we cycled past wasn’t lying.” Jethro De Decker.
http://nextbigadventure.wordpress.com/

“We’re almost done with Kenya, which is a shame because it’s been a wonderful country.  The people have been terrific, the scenerygorgeous, the weather interesting, and the food incredible.” Dave Arman
http://davearman.wordpress.com/


“Kenya gets the full marks as far as I am concerned. I enjoyed this country and was impressed by the level of education everywhere. I was also impressed by the way they have embraced Internet and cell phones. Both are available everywhere with different operator competing and at very reasonable prices. A healthy sign for the future. I have never seen as many schools as here in Kenya. They seem to have bet on the future generation through education and I can tell you that the difference between here and Ethiopia or Sudan is obvious.”  GeraldConiel.
http://africanride.blogspot.com/

“So far, Tanzania has consisted of breathtaking green mountains guarding every direction and extremely variable road conditions. It was like an obstacle course out there today, and I was surprised to find the road to Arusha, Tanzania (a very up and coming little hotspot) in such rough
shape. We rode on a mix of potholes, corrugation, cracked roads, perfect pavement, dirt, sand and still wet newly tarred roads. As German Reuben now introduces me, “This is Erin.She hates riding on dirt and it’s the only time she will get
cranky and stop talking on the ride. Hope for some dirt today.” Erin Sprague
http://cairo2capetown.wordpress.com/


“I have set a goal to raise $15,000 for The Global Fund for Women. The Tour is almost half way done and I am less than 25% of the way towards reaching thatgoal.  I need your help.” Cat Hardee. 
http://catonabike.wordpress.com/

Help to extend the ban on elephant-slaughtering ivory trade

On another note...within days, two countries are seeking to break the worldwide ban on ivory trading -- a decision that could wipe out whole elephant populations and bring these magnificent animals closer to extinction.

But many African states and conservationists support extending the ban on elephant-slaughtering ivory trade. The decision will be made at a UN meeting in Doha starting on 13 March, and global public opinion could tip the balance!

http://www.avaaz.org/en/no_more_bloody_ivory/?fbgru_descrpt

 

The rider are safe and sound and enjoying a rest day in Nairobi today.  Tour Director, Paul McManus, share his thoughts just prior to arrival in Nairobi.

I pulled into the parking lot, just south of Nanyuki, where all the riders had gathered.  The morning was crisp and cool but the sky was clear and the rising sun promised a warm dry day. A welcome change from the week of rain.  I walked from the vehicle towards the riders. They are all gathered under the dingy road sign that marked a pivotal point in the tour. We are about to cross the Equator.

The location of the Equator crossing was anti climactic, just a dirt parking lot, surrounded by curio shops and a barely readable sign, covered by years of dirt and exhaust residue.  Despite the unimpressive surroundings the mood of the group was cheery and riders and staff alike were joking and laughing while posing beneath the signboard.

One rider, Andra, was holding a bowl of water with a small stick in it.  In the bottom of the bowl she had made a small hole so the water could drain out. Unfortunately, the water still swirled clockwise as it ran out the hole.  She would have to wait until a lot further south before the water would swirl in the other direction.  Although the halfway point of the tour, by number of days, won’t be until next week and the halfway point by distance won’t happen until a few days after that. Emotionally and mentally the Equator is an important benchmark in our journey from Cairo to Cape Town. 

After 7 days of very rough dirt, remote bush camps and rather miserable weather conditions the riders reached the paved road just 30 kms before the touristy town of Archers Post, which was itself recovering from severe flooding just one week before.  After such a tough section the riders were all in need of rest and a bit of comfort. Fortunately for them (and us) the tour delivered.  The 3 riding days that straddle the equator are relatively short and easy and our campsites, at least by tour standards, are rather posh.  For three days the riders are able to shower and buy cold drinks at camp.  You can’t imagine what a big difference these small comforts can make. 

As I write this I am sitting in the shade on the banks of the River Tana. The sun is shining, the bar has just opened and steaks are simmering on the braai. Tomorrow we are in Nairobi for a rest day and shortly there after, three rest days in Arusha.  A much needed respite from a tour that has had more than it’s share of challenges thus far. 

Paul McManus - Tour Director
 

 Flickr Photo of ugali http://www.flickr.com/photos/bitterjug/

Kenyan food is basic, no frills cuisine designed to fill you up using inexpensive (but often fresh) ingredients. Think of Kenyan food like racing on a single speed bicycle; it gets the job done, butit won’t win many stage plates.

This is an incredibly diverse country, home to nearly 50 million people representing more than 40 ethnic groups. Dishes vary from region to region and within communities but the historical influence of Arab and Indian traders is a common thread. There are shifts in the use of spice and exotic ingredients but as a general rule you’ll find the spicier, more lively and adventurous flavours on the coast, while central Kenyan food is more on the plain side.  

Staple Foods:
There are at least three main dishes eaten in just about all parts of Kenya: Ugali, Nyama Choma and Sukuma Wiki.Ugali: Easy and inexpensive to grow starches are the cornerstones of many Kenyan meals, and ugali is the staple starch of east Africa. Made from maize flour and water, the recipe for ugali is similar to the recipe for paste I made in second grade. The result is a thick, bland-tasting substance that you roll into a ball with your right hand and then use to scoop up your flavour source — typically vegetables, meats and sauces, but even fresh and fermented milk. Once you’ve mastered the ball rolling technique, the trick is to make a depression in the centre of the little ball with your thumb, and then use this little hole to scoop up bits of meat and veg. This may be easier said than done but at least you don’t have to wash any utensils when it’s over.

Nyama Choma: If Kenya has a ‘national dish’ it’s probably nyama choma; this is bbq’d meat, usually beef, goat or sheep. It’s often served with ugali and sometimes vegetables too.

Sukuma Wiki: A common vegetable stew-like dish made with leafy greens. Cabbage are the most common, but pumpkin, kale, bean, sweet potato or cassava leaves can also be used. The name sukuma wiki roughly translates to “push the week” in Swahili. It’s one of the cheapest meals you can eat. In basic terms, just think of it as a cabbage, onion and tomato stew.

Kachumbali: A fresh condiment similar to pico de gallo or salsa, Kachumbali is a minced vegetable mixture of tomatoes, onions, hot peppers, and sometimes avacado. Often served with nyama choma and ugali.

Irio:  Irio is a vegetable dish made by mashing green bananas with beans, maize and often greens or pumpkin leaves. The mixture served with beef or vegetable stew.

Githeri: This heavy, filling mixture of boiled corn and beans is often lightly fried with onion.

Chapatti: Chapatti is an Indian-style wheat flour flatbread made without yeast. Cooked on a griddle to a soft browncolour, they can be eaten ontheir own, with tea, or served at a mealwith meat and vegetables.

Tea/Chai: Chai is Kenyan tea and a dentist’s nightmare. The recipe for this cavity-maker involves boiling milk, black tea leaves and heaps of sugar together with spices like cinnamon, cloves,cardamom, black pepper and nutmeg.

FYI Most of the coffee you’ll come across is instant and a disappointment considering the country is a major producer of high quality coffee.

Street food/Snacks:

Sambusas: These are tasty little descendants of the Indian samosa. Squares of deep-fried dough are stuffed withspiced meat and occasionally vegetables. They’re eaten as a snack or appetizer and if you’re lucky, they’ll pack a satisfying crunchy-chewy punch.

Maandazi: It seems no culture is immune to the allure of the donut. Here, semi-sweet dough is deep-fried and best eaten in the morning when the dough is still puffy and appetizing. Usually partnered up with tea or coffee. Unless you enjoy the taste of cold cardboard, try to get them fresh.

Mkate Mayai: Another Kenyan snack delight, the illusive mkate mayai roughly translates from Swahili to“egg-bread.” A thin wheat flour pancake is filled with minced meat and egg then fried on a griddle.

Fruit: If you’re a fruit lover like me, you’re going to be very happy here. Depending on what’s in season, you’ll be able to eat Mangoes the size of your head and feast on avocados, pineapple,bananas, oranges, pawpaws (papayas) and pears until you burst… or become very full of fruit.

Beer/Alcohol: Drinking age is 18 – so congrats! You’re all legal! Kenyan beer is a source of national pride with “Tusker” being the biggest seller. The beer’s name and elephant head label are a tribute to the company’s founder, who was killed by an elephant during a hunting accident in 1923.

Beer etiquette: Never take your bottle out of the bar. Bottles carry deposits and this is considered theft. It’s also illegal to drink out of a bottle on the streets of many cities. As Pederson,one of our Indaba staff says, “people would think you are crazy.”

Illegal home brewing and distilling is still fairly widespread in Kenya. Most of the time it’s harmless, except in the case of  “chang’aa.” This is a potent and potentially deadly homemade alcohol that could leave you blind if it doesn’t kill you. Pass on the chang’aa.

Tipping: Tipping is not mandatory but it never hurts to toss a few extra shillings onto the bill, even in a cheap restaurant. Restaurants with a lot of tourist traffic will often add a service charge to the bill, otherwise a ten per cent tip is considered the norm.

-Allison Barnes

You hear about it.  It’s all that any one can talk about.  You read the blogs in advance.  The pain and suffering.  The saddle sores, the bent rims and broken spirits.  It’s Northern Kenya and it’s designed to break you. 

When we arrived at the border town of Marsabit the border official smirked when I told him we are biking to Naroibi. This is one of the worst roads in Africa. It is so desolate that all vehicles must sign out of Marsabit and into Isiolo, so that they know you’ve survived. From the lava rock camps to the road-side camps you make it through each day.  Your body has taken a serious beating.  Over unending corrugation; it’s so rough that you feel like your teeth with rattle out.  Every muscle in your body hurts by the end of the day and as you crash into a dreamless sleep (despite the Larium) youre last thought is that you get to do it all again tomorrow.

There is no comfortable way to get over Northern Kenya.  My days as Assistant Tour Director mean that I ride in the truck four days a week. On those days, over those roads I long to be on my bicycle.  Yesterday was one of the more difficult days and Caro (our nurse) and I choose to ride it. By choice I mean that we both had the option to ride in a truck but we can’t let the riders have all the fun! 

It was my first opportunity to ride the off roads of Kenya. 
When I woke up I threw on my bike kit without thinking too much about it.  Before breakfast a flash flood runs through where our tents had been only one half hour earlier.  For a split second I reconsider my sanity but hop on the bike anyway.  I’ve only just started mountain biking as the road swells with the red clay mud Kenya is famous for I’m trying to find whatever line possible that might be clear.  Only then do I realize that my chamois cream is gone with the rainstorm. It’s going to be a looooooooong ride. 

Bouncing across the rocks on the bike as the TdA trucks slowly pass me.  As staff I’m one of the last to leave camp in to morning which means that I have a lot of ground to make up and as the rain pours down and the road gets worse. Riders are hopping into the trucks leaving me all alone in the middle of nowhere North Kenya.  The desert landscape shifts to something more desolate (if that’s possible) and you realize that you are all alone in the wild. 

On these roads there is no clear line.  You hop from one side of the road to the other trying to find something flat.  Occasionally you come across some compact sand and can fly at 15km/h.  While the day is only 88km long you probably end up doing closer to 100km.  There are so many mud puddles on the road that a Landcruiser speeds past and dumps a wall of water on me; Steve Martin Pink Panther style.  The only thing you can do is laugh. The heavens open up and it’s raining harder then I’ve ever experienced.  (important note: I’m from the west coast of Canada.  Recently a family from South Africa who is allergic to sunlight moved to my island because it is the least sunny place in the world.  So I know rain.) Trying to find a clear road I discover that the best option is to ride up the red clay river in the pouring rain.  In that moment I know that my days working in a cubical are completely over.  This is the best job I’ve ever had.  

As lunch approaches the road they are starting to pave appears on the right hand side.  Flat roads ahhhhhh.  It’s only 12km to lunch but it’s the longest 12km of my life.  I start to imagine that they have put lunch further then 50km. dreaming of a short afternoon.  Then the lunch truck mirage starts.  Every flash of white in the distance is lunch.  Then you start thinking about all the sandwiches you will eat.  All the tuna in the world cannot fill the hole in my stomach.  As I arrive at lunch I have convinced myself that I don’t have to be a hero and ride the whole day.  I’m not one of riders.  But after 3 sandwiches and the realization that it’s only 37km left I am back on the bike.  After lunch a sign appears and it says “slow down divers ahead” I imagine snorkelers in the giant puddles instead of the frogs that are swimming past me.  It’s been a long day.  Finally, the finish line flag and camp.  It’s a roadside camp. I mean directly beside the road. But it’s the most beautiful sight I have ever seen.  My tent, my thermarest and dry clothes are there.  For most of the trip the riders going to bed at 8pm have bewildered me, but after dinner and dusk, I too can barely keep my eyes open after 7:30pm.

Tomorrow is a return to civilization and to flat paved roads.  The roadie in me can’t wait to put my skinny tires back on, the new mountain biker however is sad to lose the fat tires and leave the rough roads behind.  

Kelsey L. Wiens

Greetings from your African dirt correspondent, exactly a month on from our first taste of dirt in Sudan. I'm writing from a small settlement called Laisamis, 95 kilometres from a dusty town called Marsabit, en route to Nairobi.

As we left Ethiopia, the heavy rain that had plagued the tour eased up and we were generously treated to several days of dryness. The weather changes quickly though and at 4:30am on our rest day in Marsabit riders were busily putting their rain flies on their tents. The roads in Marsabit quickly turned to mushy mud and vehicles (including our own bucky, the 'Drama Queen') were getting stuck every few hundred metres. We've not had to ride over any serious mud so far on this tour so this was shaping up to be an interesting riding challenge.

There was no real rain overnight and as the riding week began, we were told of the muddy sections that awaited us on the road. After a pretty serious downhill, I settled down for a morning of gradual descent to lunch. Soon enough the first mud arrived, vehicle tracks were carved half a foot in and any clear cut path soon vanished.

Riding over the mud was slippery and I was very glad of my previously ill-thought out decision to use fairly skinny dirt tyres. The mud attaches to your wheels quickly and within minutes it's rubbing against the inner edges of your frame and fork and collecting on top of your brake callipers, making no sound but slowing you down noticeably.

For one of the early sections, there were a hardened section on the sides of the road which was much quicker to ride along. I was riding along merrily at somewhere between 15 and 20 kmph when I caught sight of a local. He shouted and pointed straight across the road to something just metres in front of me. Slamming on my brakes and almost vaulting over my handlebars, the object he was pointing to was immediately apparent - a deep and wide crack in the earth.

Saved from this possible end to my riding day, I continued on to lunch, passing through water logged section after water logged section. The clear rain water turns brown as soon as it touches the soil and the standing water covering the depressed sections of road leaves a layer of fine grit on your skin, clothes and bicycle as you pedal through it. Bicycles were creaking for much of the day as the water washed off lube.

Visible from lunch was another water logged section of road where a truck had got stuck in a seemingly deep pothole. The cab of the truck was arched at 20 degrees to the surface of the water and it seemed that it was submerged about a metre. Normally the puddles aren't that deep, or at the very least, their surface maintains the same consistency as the road immediate before and immediately after it. Another rider Jason was standing on the other side of the puddle scraping his shoes but I took little notice of this. Feeling confident at my ability to ride such puddles, I cycled straight into this puddle, picking a line that followed the ruts on the road leading to it.

The first small puddle was fine but less than two metres into the second puddle I felt my front wheel disappear into some mysterious underwater chasm and I actually went over my handlebars this time. Luckily there was no hard impact, unluckily I was now soaked from neck down. The crew and passengers of the stuck truck broke into laughter and Jason, who hadn't seen me cycle in, was shocked to see just my head floating above the water. We stood and watched as three more riders crossed, somehow picking a line where they stayed relatively dry. One of the TDA trucks tried the same and was wedged underwater within seconds.

The afternoon featured the much promised 'extreme corrugation' and arriving to camp was a timely relief. As riders came into camp, it was pleasant to see some of the chronic complainers extolling their enjoyment of the day.


Sunil Shah powers through the tough stuff!

-written by Sunil Shah

www.geekonabicycle.co.uk

Through 40 Stages covering Egypt, Sudan, Ethiopia and Northern Kenya, the racing has been fast furious and fraught with a few unfortunate falls. Section 1 winner, Australian Adrian Lutey, sadly broke his clavicle in a high speed collision with an Ethiopian pedestrian and has been forced to return home, while Section 2 winner Marcel “the Flying Dutchman” van Zwam has been nursing a wrist injury and riding the truck for the past 9 stages. Expectations are that Marcel will be back in the saddle after Nairobi and that his riding skills will then vault him up the standings once again.

Here are the Race Leaders in terms of total riding time over the first 4717 km:
Men:
1. Frans Smit, Netherlands – 178:03
2. Stuart Briggs, Australia – 184:44
3. Daniel Spasojevic, Australia – 195:12
Women:
1. Gisela Gartmair, Germany – 195:03
2. Juliana Austin-Olsen, Canada – 202:13
3. Jen Crake, Canada – 248:38

The racers are allowed three grace days over the course of the Tour, which are deducted from their overall times as the finish line in Cape Town draws near. It is interesting to note that if all three grace days were deducted now, Frans Smit’s lead would be just under 5 hours over Stuart Briggs and Gizzy would be in third place overall, a mere 2h15 behind Stuart.

The overall and stage by stage results can be viewed here: http://www.tourdafrique.com/races/tourdafrique/race-results/2010/overall#t

The photo above shows Jen Crake starting her race day by checking in with her i-Button to our time keeping device – the Time Pilot Extreme – provided by Tour Sponsor Time Pilot Inc.

The last few days in Ethiopia felt different somehow.  The children seemed to be less aggressive and the stone throwing seemed to be isolated incidents instead of the norm. The vocabulary of the children also started improving.  From ‘you, you, you’ to the odd ‘Welcome’ or ‘How are you’ was also a welcome change.

The last two days the people started getting taller and not everyone was carrying a stick.  The quality of the roads deteriorated into a patchwork of tar with lots of potholes. 
Fortunately the only motorized traffic on the roads seem to be trucks or buses, with very few privately owned vehicles, so we were able to spread ourselves between potholes.

We have seen a lot of rain in the lastweek, and had pouring rain on the rest day at the border, which is when laundry always gets done.  So we left Moyale withplenty of wet laundry.  The best thing to do with wet laundry seems to be to wear it where the warmth of the body driesit out.  We were really worried about thewet roads for both riders and the trucks getting stuck, but fortunately the first three days in Kenya were dry. 

The first day was pretty tough on the dirt road, and then proceeded to get pogressively worse with the constant corrugations and volcanic rock and stone.  The third day was the toughest, and the riders arrived at Marsabit very ready for a days break.So now we are in Kenya where we are called Mzungus rather than Farengis, and everyone says ‘Jambo’ with huge smiles. Being a former British Colony the people speak good English on the whole, and it is much easier to be understood.  The lastthree days have really been isolated, and it’s been good to see some civilization again. 

It’s amazing to think that this road we have been riding on is the main road between Kenya andEthiopia.  It appears there are politicalreasons for the Kenyan government not to want to develop this road, as then Mombasa will become the main port for Ethiopia with the vast increase intraffic that will go with it, instead of using Djibouti as they currently are.  It will be interesting to see how many years it will take before TDA riders will be riding this lava rock road as opposed to tarred pavement.

The rain has started again as we sit here in Marsabit, and we have grave concerns about the road ahead for both cyclists
and especially trucks.  Think of us as we head for the muddy mess in the days ahead.

   --Caroline Murray.