It’s a little hard to describe how beautiful the last three days have been. They have probably been the most scenic consecutive days of the tour. From Keetmanshoop we cycled to the Fish River Canon and another 178km to the Orange River— the Namibian and South African border.
I traveled these roads by car five years ago. I remember the beauty of the surrounding landscape, but the last three days of cycling imprints a new beauty in my mind. At one point I overheard Clive saying, “I have just died and gone to cycling heaven.†This was at 10am. After lunch, in true TDA style, the dirt turned soft, sapping legs of energy, and then 60km of strong head wind. The wind was having the last say and reminding us what cycling in Africa is really like. During the afternoon ride, my thoughts were, “I have died and gone to cycling hell!â€
Today’s rest day was well earned. In one week, we will roll into Cape Town and the tour will all be over. When I think back it will be days like the last three that I will hold onto.
Wow, only four weeks left. It’s hard to believe approximately one month ago, we were in Arusha and exploring the plains of the Serengeti. From Lusaka, we have pedaled 495km in three days. The last night of the three day stretch we found ourselves ten meters from the main road. Very few people slept through the night as trucks whizzed along the road. At times, it felt more like we were sleeping in the road.
My mom, Irmie Bush (TDA ’06), joined the tour from Lusaka after distributing 2000 mosquito nets. It has been interesting listening to her comparing the 06 tour to this year’s. For one, 08 is a larger group and it appears to dilute much inter-camp conflicts. Another big difference is lower racer numbers giving the tour more of expedition feel. There is always a sweep rider for mechanical issues or can phone a pickup if you can’t complete the day. Lastly, the food is way better and the tour is better organized.
So all and all, things aren’t too bad and with 28 days to go, we can all have a pat on the back and enjoy the magnificence of Victoria Falls and two well deserved rest days.
One hundred and ninety-seven kilometers, sunburned and shattered. I’m happy to be at camp.
Chitimba beach is a small piece of paradise on Lake Malawi and was a perfect stop for our “halfway†party and a rest day to recover. Mentally and physically we are a lot closer to Cape Town than halfway but with the removal of Kenya we are just over halfway in terms of distance.
During last three weeks we have seen many people with skin infections – some nasty, fortunately most innocuous. Hot, humid and rainy conditions delay healing and allow simple scratches to become infected pretty quickly. The antibiotic reserves and dressing kit have both taken a hit.
With only six weeks left before we roll into Cape Town there is still much more distance to cover and some long tough days ahead. However, the end is in sight and many of us are planning our time for Cape Town. Some of us are asking the inevitable question, “What will life be like after TDA?†It seems that everyone has their list of thing to do or eat in Cape Town or wherever home is and the countdown has begun.
To all our loved ones out there: “We are almost there. A little bruised and battered, a little bit thinner, in some ways stronger and all in all enriched.â€
Who said life should be easy? It has been pretty tough here and the Ethiopian challenge has definitely dented a few peoples ambition to remain EFI-ers. The challenge has also brought out the best and worst in people. There are certain things that will never change: the hills, what goes up can keep going up; the people, whom most of the time are pretty friendly but can be particularly tiring; and of course, children throwing stones.
The new route from Addis Ababa had a sting in its tail yesterday with roads that are similar to Northern Kenya. It has been interesting to watch those who can roll with the punches and suck up the tough stuff without complaint.
Africa is a tough place and it is what it is. If you expected anything less than tough roads, challenging hills, diarrhea and vomiting, drinking more than six liters of fluid a day and of course a few stones thudding into you, then you came ill prepared. No amount of complaining will change it. Acceptance is key.
The cyclist’s bodies have also begun to break down. It has not been just the weight loss that comes with the massive amount of mileage. The “veggies†have had a particularly tough time. A number of them have small wounds that are just not healing well. Miles, our chef, has done wonders with the food but Africa is definitely not prepared for vegetarians, at least not those that intent on cycling more than 100km per day.
The two week break in Arusha is going to be particularly welcome. I know that I can’t wait and others will welcome the opportunity for their bodies to recuperate.
It seems we keep repeating the same scenario: new stage, day 1 = head wind. Well, fortunately only a head wind until lunch.
What we are not repeating is the previous TDA route to Moyale. Our route from Addis Ababa keeps us off the main road/old route and so it is definitely quieter and from what I’ve heard—more beautiful.
After two rest days in Addis Ababa many cyclists were keen to get back to the simple routine that has become our way of life. Running around a city in search of decent internet, illegal telephone lines to call home, eating grotesque amounts of food, washing clothes and sorting our bicycles is far too complicated and definitely too tiring for what is supposed to be a rest day.
We convoyed the first 18km out of town (something we are getting increasingly good at) and with a few rollers, a strong tailwind and downhill for the last 20km, the first day of the new route was relatively easy. Apparently the next several days are going to be a bit more topographically challenging.
We left behind a number of people in Addis Ababa. Many of them are off to Lali Bela and will join us a little later. Maria Abagis and Spiros Analytis are on enforced leave as Spiros fractured his clavicle on the 14th. We wish him a speedy recovery and look forward to the return of all those who have left us. Enjoy the sights!
Feb 14th Valentines day…a beautiful morning, scrumptious lunch an even better dinner
Ethiopia is truly beautiful. I suppose I have said the same of Sudan but both of these two countries are amazing in totally different ways. The children here are delightful, if a little tiring at times, and then occasionally down right terrors - more than a few cyclists have suffered minor injuries from stones thrown from banks and behind trees.
For the first time in a while we were greeted at lunch with cold meat ïŠâ€¦rumour has it that it was goat. It was great!
To all those loved ones at home all the cyclists wish you a lovely Valentine’s Day and look forward to seeing you soon.
We are into our third country and our third day with temperatures in excess of 40C. Tomorrow we probably will have similar heat in the hills, let me rephrase, the mountains begin. Over the next 16 cycling days we will climb approximately 19km. It will be extremely interesting to see how people cope after an easy ride through Egypt and relatively easy ride through Sudan. Our toughest day yet is still probably the 1st day out of Cairo. It is ALL about to change!
In general, people have been coping well with the heat and there have been no serious cases of dehydration. There are a few bruised egos with people losing their EFI status, but there is also the realization that the pressure to hold onto it is also gone. Some riders are spending more time on the bus than on a bike and at this rate it could be interesting to see how much of Ethiopia they will see on their bike; at least they will avoid the sticks and stones that the locals are renowned for using on TDA riders.
I am expecting a few more falls, a lot more diarrhea and definitely some exhausted riders. I have already had to ask someone not to ride a full day and although I don’t enjoy stopping people from riding, this is a trip over 4 months and everyone needs to get to Cape Town in one piece.
Three days out of Dongola and three days of tailwind on great road, makes riders happy, adds loads of distance and fills our tents with sand…with the sand not ending there; it’s also in our food, eyes, ears and every now then, in our mouths on which to chew.
Last night’s wind was no different as we pitched tents in clouds of sand and then took shelter behind the dinner truck, where we enjoyed an African general knowledge quiz before dinner.
The wind blew all night and this morning was a chilly, beautiful desert morning with sand drifting and swirling gently across the road ahead. Occasionally we would turn slightly left and catch the wind from the side. As an oncoming bus races by, the gentle drift of sand would act as hundreds of biting gnats and then a spade full of sand in the face.
Today was the last racing day before Khartoum and because of the improved road surface and tailwind we will be cruising into town one day ahead of schedule. This means an extra day to spend in town, hopefully out of the sand. As per rider vote we will be having a 20km time-trial tomorrow. We should see some good times if this wind persists getting us into town early enough to see the whirling dervishes on Friday afternoon.
Khartoum and the end of Pharaoh’s Delight here we come.
It was a hurried, four days that brought us from Wadi Halfa to our current camp in Dongala’s abandoned zoo. Dongala is approximately halfway to Khartoum and in regards to cycling, certainly the tougher half. This rest day was a time to clean off the dirt, relax and for once stay around camp. There are not many sites to see so people are heading to town for food and an internet connection.
Dongala has also been our first exposure to fairly strict Islamic dress codes. It is something, as a Westerner, that is hard to understand. It is hard to comprehend what it would be like for a Muslim adolescent, never being exposed to a grown woman’s knee, let along a shoulder, or even tight clothing. What would our reactions be? In their eyes, we are as good as naked.
Unfortunately we managed to offend. It is a little hard to bath in a red box without showing a little too much skin and some locals came to camp to say that Islamic dress code extends to all of Sudan, including our camp in an abandoned zoo.
It’s good to remember and be reminded that although there are things that we may never understand, others see the world in different ways and it doesn’t mean that they are wrong. In our case, it’s less about offending and more about respect.
