We would like to offer a little perspective on the issue of Ethiopian children throwing rocks at the cyclists during the Tour ‘d’Afrique from our Brazilian colleague, Christiano Werneck…  

“The stories and videos about the rock-throwing kids in Ethiopia caught my attention. That country has been always a part of my dream about riding in Africa, as something very different from everything I have ever seen.

A couple years ago, a small group of friends and I started a night ride. The idea was to do something different from other groups we have here in my city. It was going be for free, for everyone, and without a support car. We called it RUT's, abbreviating something like Thursday's Night Ride, and playing with the word ‘roots’ in English. Roots because we were back to the most simple way of cycling. Get together and ride. No police cars, no stopping traffic, nothing, as bicycles do not need cars or people stopping traffic to be respected. We put our advocacy to it.

I stopped going a year ago, and during that time, they had to change the meeting and starting point, and it ended up being great. A lot more people have been going. I went last Thursday night, and there were more than 80 people. It's a very unstructured thing. Each week, someone chooses a route. Anyone can be the guide.

It ended up that, because of all those factors, they have been occasionally going through some sections of the city where the other night rides never go - distant neighborhoods, slums, etc.  It's nice. Last Thursday I heard a guy saying to another: "The nice thing about this ride is that we get to go to places in the city we have never been and would never go, if it wasn't for this". Anyway, as we rode through a very infamous slum on a brand new avenue which now crosses it between two fancy neighborhoods, it rained stones at us. And as we talked about it later drinking a nice cold beer, I was told that this was not the first time nor the first place this had happened during a RUT ride. It's not common, but it has happened sometimes as the group got bigger. And to think I had gotten so excited to talk about it happening in Ethiopia - as if it was something very alien.” 

And it is also instructive to recall the wise words of our own Miles MacDonald posted in 2008…

  “Within our time in Ethiopia many cyclists have experienced the peculiarity of having stones thrown at them by children. Bizarre in one right, explainable in another. Occasionally the gap between wealthy tourist and half naked child brings such a degree of miscomprehension that stupidity ensues. Though the purpose of traveling by bicycle is to slow down and step beyond the doors of a Toyota Landcruiser; it is still too quick a mode of transportation to bridge the distance in understanding. Days, weeks or even years are necessary for a foreigner to understand the intricacies and beauties of this culture, let’s hope a few stones don’t deter any curious souls from riding a bicycle here, or from taking the time to learn.”

This dude gets serious points for originality. On Friday, with the spectacular panoramic views of the Blue Nile Gorge in front of them, sectional riders Georgina and Marc got engaged! The charming pair leave the Tour d'Afrique today, having completed the challenging “Gorge” section of the tour, but I couldn't let them sneak away without dishing the goods on how Marc popped the question. I tracked them down for an interview during lunch amid the green rolling hills of Ethiopia, where we found a spot amongst the cows and resting bicycles to tell the tale.

Allison: How did Marc propose?

Georgie: Marc had been violently ill the night before. I banned him from riding that morning, but he went ahead and rode in the afternoon anyway.

A: He had a mission...

Marc: Exactly.

A: Where did you do it?

M: It was about 10 minutes into the descent (into the Blue Nile Gorge). I said, 'oh here's a nice spot. Let's stop and enjoy the view.' G: I was a bit annoyed because I didn't want to stop, but Marc insisted, so we sat and overlooked the Gorge. So, yes, we were sitting, there was no kneeling involved!

A: Exciting! How did he word it?

G: Marc said, 'I wonder if you could carry something for me?' - which I thought was a bit mean really – I was slightly confused! And then he said, 'will you marry me?' and i didn't say yes, I just cried, and I think he said, 'I'll think I'll take that as a yes!” Then I had to climb the Gorge of hell – but I did it with a big smile on my face. Some people get to toast their engagement with champagne; we toasted with electrolyte drink.

A: Marc, what made you decide to propose on the Tour d'Afrique, 10 minutes into the epic 20 kilometre Blue Nile Gorge descent?

M: Georgie loves Africa; it's her favourite place in the world and I thought it would be perfect with the stunning views...
G: ...and I am over the moon! It couldn't have been more perfect. The Gorge was the whole reason we chose this section. And I have to say, having survived it, and Dinder National Park of hell together, we can survive anything!  

Georgina and Marc joined the Tour d'Afrique for “The Gorge” section, from Khartoum, Sudan to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. The couple of two and a half years live in Gerrard's Cross, near London, which sounds pretty darn cute. We wish them all the best.      -- Allison Barnes  

Sitting on faded green canvas camp chairs in a farmer's field in Ethiopia, Patrick Cantwell and Wayne Woodward are surrounded by tents, their domes peppering the sun-scorched grass landscape like brilliant cocoons of blue, yellow and orange.  The pair are attempting to complete the Tour d'Afrique, an epic 12-thousand kilometre bicycle race and expedition travelling from Cairo to Cape Town in just four months.

Chatting as the sun sets amidst a mobile village of more than 60 spandex-clad riders after a hearty spaghetti dinner at camp, the couple from Sydney's Surrey Hills suburb speak candidly about the challenges they've faced one month into the tour. At 42 and 55, Cantwell and Woodward are not the youngest riders to attempt the journey, but fitness and discipline are something the pair take seriously, and it shows.  "We had a trainer who basically got us on the bicycle as much as possible, cycling every day twice a day. Two hours in the morning and one hour in the evening," says Cantwell, describing their rigorous pre-trip training regime. "We stopped weight training and focused on endurance and cardio... sacrificing our muscles," adds Woodward with a chuckle.
While no strangers to the gym, both were relatively new to cycling before signing up for the tour. "At first, it was the physical aspect that appealed to us," says Woodward, "which cannot be underestimated. We expected it would be difficult and it is. This is about pushing ourselves beyond our limits, doing something we wouldn't normally do. You deal with saddle sores and muscle fatigue early on, but also mental tiredness and emotional meltdowns. Cycling more than 11 hours in 40 degree heat is rough. But that's part of what this is about - finding more when you think you've got nothing left on those long days. "

Cantwell read about the first Tour d'Afrique in 2003, clipping the article about an unusual journey travelling through ten African countries (Egypt, Sudan, Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Botswana, Namibia and South Africa), averaging 125km of cycling per day. Eight years later, the paramedic is living out his own chapter of the story, coming face to face with the great pyramids of Egypt, pedaling past camels over scorching pavement in Sudan, and tackling the breath-taking mountainous terrain and lung-busting climbs of Ethiopia. "It's scary how much we're eating," admits Cantwell with a look of genuine concern.  "Just incredible quantities, and I'm losing weight. Ten kilos so far. You go searching for calories where ever you can get them. A couple of chocolate bars, ten Cokes...it's just burn, burn, burn."

Aside from the physical challenge and the opportunity to experience different cultures, the couple of more than 16 years are hoping to give back through their web site and blog, www.wayneandpatrick.org, raising money for both the Prostate Cancer Foundation of Australia as well as the Tour d'Afrique Foundation, which donates bicycles to health care professionals in Africa. "We want to help people in the communities we're cycling through as much as possible," says Cantwell.

The oppressive heat of the afternoon begins to fade, lending a mood of calm reflection to the early evening. "These are my favourite moments," says Cantwell. "This hour each day, sitting beneath an African sunset...the light is perfect. You've achieved the day." But one doesn't reach this level of post-cycling bliss without preparation. "Ride as much as you can before you get here. Just don't bring a new saddle you bought just before you got on the plane, like I did," stresses Cantwell, wincing. "But having said that, you can only prepare so much for four months of cycling across Africa." Woodward agrees, "You can prepare yourself for the end of the earth and this would still surprise you. But that's what's so great about it." 


   -Allison Barnes

I woke up this morning and as I do every morning when our tours are running and I am not on the tour (which is now most of the time), I turned the computer on and checked the emails and the twitter to see how the tour is doing or rather to check if all is well.

I read the few emails quickly and there was nothing unusual. So I had my breakfast and walked a half an hour to the office. Before I had a chance to say good morning Brian informed me that “we have problems.”

A truck had blown an engine. Blowing an engine on one of the two large support trucks when you have a tight schedule to cycle across Africa with over 60 riders is a problem. It is a serious problem when you are in a remote area of Africa where fixing an engine is not a simple matter. We have started taking actions that will hopefully solve the short term as well as the long term problem. The number one priority of course is to find a short term replacement which we are now actively pursuing. Hopefully we will have an answer by tomorrow.

Tomorrow is a rest day so at least we have 24 hours to deal with the breakage. The likelihood is that we will take an additional day to organize ourselves. It will also give the  riders an extra day to recover from some tough cycling between Khartoum and Gondar. 

And so it goes. Just another day that reminds us that this is still a very difficult expedition. Though we may now have almost full cell phone access, twitters and other new technologies, the basic challenges of crossing the African continent remain unchanged. It is an adventure every day from the first to the last. I am sure there will be more to come.

One rider on Twitter said it was ‘the hardest day of my life so far’ while another described it as the ‘biggest EFI massacre ever.’  

It was an epic, epic day... actually, from what I am told it was two or three giant days of riding on the untested roads approaching and inside Dinder National Park – a new route for us. These will surely be rides that live deep in the hearts of many riders, and surely for others it was simply soul shattering, frustrating days.  

I am in Khartoum tending to a rider who is on the mend from an earlier fall. The early reports I am getting from the tour suggests that it is an extraordinary and doable route, if you will, off the beaten track, or rather “way off the beaten track”, but it will need another day of riding to make it manageable for next year’s group.  

As with years past, we continue the tradition we started on Tour d’Afrique in 2003 when many simply said it was not doable. We believe in putting ourselves out of the box, in pushing the envelope. We did it in South America this past fall, in Namibia last year and Ethiopia the previous year… but not without hardship for the riders and long tough days for the staff. In these situations the cyclists have to dig deeper than they ever did in the past.  

They don’t all thank us for it.  

And, no doubt, we can appreciate why. For many these two days meant the end to their dream of riding EFI, and for others it was a shock to their system they had not been eased into gently at all. This is the risk we run, and this is the style we like.  

To all those cyclists enroute, you have many challenges ahead. But you are all graduates of Dinder National Park school of pain and we salute you for traveling this road with us…  

Project Manager, Shanny Hill from Khartoum

How is the tour going? 

“It’s pretty much a lot more epic than I thought it was going to be. It was difficult to comprehend the enormity of the thing before, and now  I’m starting to get a bit of an idea of the scope - not just the mileage, but the organization and planning… it’s really quite huge. And I feel a very long way from home all of a sudden; but it’s brilliant in a nutshell.”

  
What has been the biggest challenge for you so far?

 “For success you’ve got to keep your body and your bike healthy. Hygiene and health have become a number one priority. I normally shower twice a day back home. That first week with six desert camps was a bit of a shock to the system. Riding 170km in the desert and not being able to shower... and then having to hop into your sleeping bag takes some getting used to, but you fall into the routine pretty quickly. Wet wipes are your best friend."  

What are you looking forward to?

“It’s difficult to think about the future. Big city life is incredibly fast-paced and weeks pass by in a blink. I really wanted to stop that, to slow down and have an adventure…to live in the moment. I’m just enjoying each day as it comes. I’m not wishing away the days.”  

Are you racing the tour or riding it as an expedition?

“I’m a mountain biker. Initially I wanted to race it. But I’ve come to realize as I’ve started this trip that it’s not what I want to be doing.  It’s been the biggest conflict for me - wanting to race but also enjoy the countries I’m riding through. So I’m slowing down a lot, taking photos and chatting. I want to live Africa. For me the most polarizing experience so far was the night we had a bonfire; it was the most magic evening. But all the racers were in bed. That was the first night where it really became clear to me what I want. That’s what this tour is all about. I can race anywhere.”  

What is your goal for the tour?

“My goal is EFI (riding Every Fabulous Inch of the tour without getting on a truck). Without a doubt.” 

Can you do it?

"Yes. Absolutely. Barring breaking a leg. Breaking an arm is fine. I can ride with one arm. "


  - Allison Barnes

On their last day into Khartoum, the riders started the day with a friendly 20 km Time Trial for all, which was christened “The Race of Truth.” The massive tailwind from the previous day continued to blow ensuring the Time Trial would be fast furious and FUN! Here are the leading times over the 20 km for both racers and non-racers:  

Men Racers 1 Adrian Lutey 32:52

2 Eric Dufour 33:18 3 Marcel van Zwam 33:20

  Women Racers

1 Jen Crake 36:20 2 Gisela Gartmair 37:18

3 Juliana Austin-Olsen 37:46  

Men Non-Racers 1 Hartmut Bögel 38:10

2 Jim Cavanaugh 38:18 3 Paul Brummelhuis 39:05

  Women Non-Racers

1 Laura de Somer 40:36 2 Dana Farrell 41:31

3 Caroline Derouet 45:00  

Congratulations are also due to the winners of the Pharaoh’s Delight section covering the first 1914 km of the Tour from Cairo to Khartoum. The men’s winner is Adrian Lutey of Western Australia who holds an 11 minute lead over a “Flying Dutchman,” Marcel van Zwam. Among the ladies Canadian Juliana Olsen-Austin took a mere 1 minute less to get to Khartoum than Germany’s Gisela Gartmair. The complete section standings can be found here.   While the racing and the pavement have been great so far, it is only partway through the next section, when the Tour has its first off road days and then begins climbing up and down the  Ethiopian plateau, that the riders will face their first really serious tests.

 

This year the staff of the Tour d'Afrique 2010 are wearing their very own exclusive staff t-shirts made by a local Toronto based company, METOWE STYLE. Watch for more TDA clothing options in the future!

The riders on the 2010 Tour d'Afrique will roll out of Cairo on January 16, 2010, but the tour has already begun for the South and East African support crew.

Congregating in Nairobi over the last week, they have finalized their Sudanese and Ethiopian visas, cleaned and tuned the vehicles, bought supplies, and they are now set to embark on the long drive north to meet the Tour d'Afrique in Cairo - it will be Christmas and New years in Sudan for this group.

The truck convoy includes two overland trucks and a Landcruiser - all customized to Tour d'Afrique's needs.

These fortunate few will have the pleasure of taking the ferry to Egypt from Sudan to meet us in Cairo, only to turn around and start heading south again - supporting the riders on the eighth annual tour.

For the Tour d'Afrique riders, if you see the crew around the hotel looking a little tired, and dirty, just remember how they got to Cairo. I am sure none of them would say no to a cold beer if you offered.

To the crew currently on the road - safe travels and see you in Cairo - inshallah.

from left to right: Peterson, Janet, Ferdi, Sharita, and Errol