Sitting on faded green canvas camp chairs in a farmer's field in Ethiopia, Patrick Cantwell and Wayne Woodward are surrounded by tents, their domes peppering the sun-scorched grass landscape like brilliant cocoons of blue, yellow and orange.  The pair are attempting to complete the Tour d'Afrique, an epic 12-thousand kilometre bicycle race and expedition travelling from Cairo to Cape Town in just four months.

Chatting as the sun sets amidst a mobile village of more than 60 spandex-clad riders after a hearty spaghetti dinner at camp, the couple from Sydney's Surrey Hills suburb speak candidly about the challenges they've faced one month into the tour. At 42 and 55, Cantwell and Woodward are not the youngest riders to attempt the journey, but fitness and discipline are something the pair take seriously, and it shows.  "We had a trainer who basically got us on the bicycle as much as possible, cycling every day twice a day. Two hours in the morning and one hour in the evening," says Cantwell, describing their rigorous pre-trip training regime. "We stopped weight training and focused on endurance and cardio... sacrificing our muscles," adds Woodward with a chuckle.
While no strangers to the gym, both were relatively new to cycling before signing up for the tour. "At first, it was the physical aspect that appealed to us," says Woodward, "which cannot be underestimated. We expected it would be difficult and it is. This is about pushing ourselves beyond our limits, doing something we wouldn't normally do. You deal with saddle sores and muscle fatigue early on, but also mental tiredness and emotional meltdowns. Cycling more than 11 hours in 40 degree heat is rough. But that's part of what this is about - finding more when you think you've got nothing left on those long days. "

Cantwell read about the first Tour d'Afrique in 2003, clipping the article about an unusual journey travelling through ten African countries (Egypt, Sudan, Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Botswana, Namibia and South Africa), averaging 125km of cycling per day. Eight years later, the paramedic is living out his own chapter of the story, coming face to face with the great pyramids of Egypt, pedaling past camels over scorching pavement in Sudan, and tackling the breath-taking mountainous terrain and lung-busting climbs of Ethiopia. "It's scary how much we're eating," admits Cantwell with a look of genuine concern.  "Just incredible quantities, and I'm losing weight. Ten kilos so far. You go searching for calories where ever you can get them. A couple of chocolate bars, ten Cokes...it's just burn, burn, burn."

Aside from the physical challenge and the opportunity to experience different cultures, the couple of more than 16 years are hoping to give back through their web site and blog, www.wayneandpatrick.org, raising money for both the Prostate Cancer Foundation of Australia as well as the Tour d'Afrique Foundation, which donates bicycles to health care professionals in Africa. "We want to help people in the communities we're cycling through as much as possible," says Cantwell.

The oppressive heat of the afternoon begins to fade, lending a mood of calm reflection to the early evening. "These are my favourite moments," says Cantwell. "This hour each day, sitting beneath an African sunset...the light is perfect. You've achieved the day." But one doesn't reach this level of post-cycling bliss without preparation. "Ride as much as you can before you get here. Just don't bring a new saddle you bought just before you got on the plane, like I did," stresses Cantwell, wincing. "But having said that, you can only prepare so much for four months of cycling across Africa." Woodward agrees, "You can prepare yourself for the end of the earth and this would still surprise you. But that's what's so great about it." 


   -Allison Barnes

Erik Dobrovolsky: Where are you guys from?

Tim Gane: We’re both from South Africa. I’m born and bred in Johanesburg and have been living and working in Cape Town for the last three years.

Bruce McPhail: Same with me, but I have been working in Australia for about 8 years.

 

ED: How did you first hear about the tour?

TG: In my job, we have a news website and we kind of cover the tour because it finishes in Cape Town, so every year we make a little bit of a spiel about it. I came across it that way and was quite keen to check it out in more depth so I sent an email to a bunch of mates to see if they were interested in doing it with me.

BM: And I was the only one who responded.

TG: Yeah, Bruce was the only one who said “Yeah, I’m keen”

 

ED: How did you prepare for the race?

BM: Just lots of time in the saddle, went to the gym quite a lot and started to eat healthier in general.

 

ED: Has the tour lived up to your expectations so far?

TG: Beyond it for me. I think maybe in the beginning I didn’t expect it to be this tough. I though myself quite fit and strong going into it and underestimated how your body breaks down and then rebuilds through different cycles. But having said that it has really been an amazing adventure, good fun and I think how it’s run as a company has just been fantastic.

 

ED: What has been your favorite country so far and why?

BM: Tanzania definitely. The scenery was beautiful, seeing Kilimanjaro was unreal, the Ngorongoro Crater was out of this world. The riding was really interesting; we had a combination of roads, dirt roads through mountain passes and there were some tarred sections. I really like it.

 

ED: What has been the most challenging aspect of the tour so far?

BM: I would say health. I have struggled a bit with health. Cycling almost every day and not feeling great really becomes a challenge psychologically.

 

ED: Are you raising any funds for charity?

TG: Yeah, that was one of the main reasons we decided to embark on this. We’re raising funds for a school on the Eastern Cape of South Africa, which is quite a poor province. The name of the charity is cycle2learn.org. Our goal is to raise enough money to build them two new classrooms and for that we need 180,000 Rand and at this stage we have about 130,000 Rand. We’re hoping for quite a big push towards the end as we near home.

 

ED: What kind of support are you receiving from home?

TG: Friends and family have been amazing but above that are the strangers who have donated to the school and then don’t loose interest but follow our daily blogs and diary. These people also send us emails often and it does a world of good when you get into a rest day, log onto the internet and read an email from a stranger offering support and encouragement. It’s incredible and really lifts your spirits.

 

ED: What has been the most surprising aspect of the tour so far

BM: I was surprised by the range of people that came along. You have guys that are elite athletes and guys that are well into retirement. The spectrum is as wide as you can get it.

'This Stage put another hole in my ass' Nels H 'Arid, bumpy, beautiful, rough, free, rocky, peaceful and hot' Paddy T 'Ideal Recipe: really rough offroad, guinness, drum tobacco and eventually tarmac (to please everybody)' Gunther T 'Superb: exactly what I was expecting from biking in Africa' Remy B 'Corregations, sweat and a sore bum. But peaceful and no rock throwing children' Alice R 'Meltdown Madness, because there is not enough suffering in the world' David P 'A true test of mind and body' Shaun M 'Everybody had to employ a different strategy to get through that REALLY BAD PART. One strategy (highly recommended) was to skip the whole thing. Other than THAT PART, this section was super awesome complete with spear toting ethiopians, donkeys attempting to mate and a big welcome to Kenya.' Leigh Anne S

Elaine Morwood 'Tendrils of mist rise off the savannah in the light of dawn. In the distance I hear the low echoing harmony of the men singing; raising the watre hand over hand from the spring to the surface. I raise my face to the sky and breathe in the crouching energy of the land. My bike is hungry for the road, my mind for the experience and my sould for the revelation that is Africa; tormentor and teacher.' Adrie Frijters 'The Blue Nile Gorge time trial was the hardest of my racing career' David Papenfus 'A shit day on the Tour d'Afrique is better than a good day anywhere else'

'I've never ridden through more inhospitable terrain, nor met more hospitable people.' -Sarah B- 'Only seven more sections until I wash again! Sudan – difficult to get into, but well worth the trouble.' -Andy P- 'The first three weeks of this trip were even more exciting than I dreamed it to be.' -Markus W- 'Sand and bumps with a cold Coke.' -Sean C.- 'You guys are doing a real good job. I am very surprised how good the tour is organized and really good the food is. Thanks a lot.' -Walter B- 'Pleasure and Pain.' -Nels H- ‘Awesome start. Looking forward to the next few months.’ -Remy B- ‘Happiness is… food, music, my bike, and an open road through Africa.’ -Patrick T- ‘It may be a Pharaoh’s Delight, but my bum is in a plight.’ -Jan E- ‘Sleepless cyclists under a Soft Sudanese moon From their winded tents, a fart.’ -Darrel W- ‘An amazing experience – it was both harder and easier than expected.’ -Tom B- ‘Beautiful, sparse and very friendly.’ -Alice R- ‘Why am I riding in the sand???’ -Vivian H- ‘Impressive and inspiring; the TDA team and spirit, the cycling, and especially the Sudanese scenery and people.’ -Eva N- ‘Far above my expectations.’ -Eric S- ‘I am surprised about the very friendly people and love the beautiful different areas. The TDA organization is very good. It’s totally fantastic.’ -Gerhard S- ‘Have you even noticed that those riding slower than you are idiots and those going faster are maniacs.’ -Gunther T- ‘It was like the first date with Africa; colleagues of the tour and nice staff.’ -Lucette L- ‘From Cairo to Aswan this section was very good in terms of roads, monuments, and the temperature. From Wadi Halfa to Khartoum this section was a nightmare at the beginning. There was nothing that resembled a road. It was only deep sand and very hot temperatures. But finally we found roads into Khartoum.’ -Joash A- ‘Grievous, tandem, wreck, challenge.’ -Douglas S-

I apologize for any misspeled towns and lack of last names for a few riders. The completion on May 15 of 11,000 kilometers of cycling was something different for all of the 40-plus riders who participated in all or parts of Tour d' Afrique 2004. You've read many tales from the riders along the way. Here now from participants is a recollection of his/her best experience, worst experience and advice for next year's riders. Brian Rogers My best memory was in the Sudan when we all got lost in the desert in Kermah and everybody was so tired. It took 8, 9 hours and we all ended up at the same little little snack bar on the side of the Nile and everybody was all together. We all drank guavas and had plates of fruit and created a big mess. And then the truck was lost and we ended up sleeping in a little hotel called the Kermah Hotel. That was a great night. Worst experience: In the Sudan again laying in my tent with diarhea having stomach convulsions and wishing I was home. Advice: Bring a big tent. Get a three- or four-man tent. Gerard Best experience: Blue Nile Gorge. I enjoyed it very much. It was a hard climb - 20k down, 20k up. I didn't have to walk. I like climbing and it was nice to do that. You saw a lot in the distance. I was climbing with the truck and I had almost the same time as the truck. Worst memory: That three people had to go to the hospital - Mark, Scott and Pete. Advice: Be convinced of making the whole tour when you start and not thinking maybe, maybe not. You should be convinced of making that you can make it. Dave Atlee My best memory on this trip would probably be photographing the Samburu and Rendelle warriors in Marsibit. That's because I'mm into photography. Worst memory: That was the approach into Marsibit. It was the only time on this trip where my legs honestly said to me i just do not want to go around in circles anymore. I barely dragged my ass into Marsibit. The probleem was I started out in the morning with my head in the wrong gear. I told myself it was going to be an easy day and that is the number one thing you do not do on this trip. Every day is difficult. Advice: Come prepared with good equipment. You must have a good bike. No junk. This is no place for junk. And the most important thing is to treat every day with respect. Every day is difficult. Never ever tell yourself this is going to be an easy day or your doomed right from the beginning. You have to put your head in first gear and leave it there.