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Blog | Randy Pielsticker Icon_16x16_light_rss RSS

10 Things



10 things you’ll find travelling in Bolivia
1.    Very friendly people.
2.    The Salar de Uyuni, the worlds largest salt flat.
3.    A fresh squeazed cup of warm donkey milk, in front of the bus station in Oruro.
4.    Tihuanako, one of the most significant, pre-Incan archaeological sites.
5.    The Death Hwy, a 60km, 3500m descent of hairy switchbacks tacked to 800m cliffs and no guardrails. (above)
6.    Pachamama
7.    A dried llama fetus from the Witches Market in La Paz, take it home and bury it under your house for good luck
8.    The best value for tour operators in South America to arrange a trip into the headwaters of the Amazon.
9.    Copacabana? Are we back in Rio?
10.    Americans need a visa.

Posted October 20, 2009 by Randy Pielsticker
Bolivia | Tour Updates
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Off the Beaten Track



The Missing Link…  So how far off the beaten path are you willing to travel?  Regardless of where most tourists go, I’m yet to even find a map that shows a linkage of roads along the Chilean coast from La Serena to Caldera.  But that didn’t stop us.  Google Earth showed a maze of tiny roads that fizzled out into a coastal mountain range.  During the scout it took me several attempts to find the passage, but my challenge now was to lead this group of courageous peddlers back through it.

  Our first day out of La Serena began on the Panamericana Norte.  It was paved, scenic, but there was a 14km climb with 600m of elevation gain mid day.  The final stretch of the day took us down a dirt road to the remote town of Punta Choros, a windswept fishing village with fabulous seafood, but also a popular tourist destination for viewing the sea lion and penguin colonies or whales during migration.  And this is the point where on all maps the roads end.

We began our second day with an 8km convoy through a myriad of intertwining sand tracks.  Pick your line!  Some were corrugated, some were ankle deep beach sand, none of them were easily cycled, but it was only 8km.  The majority of the day was spent on a relatively smooth road with great tailwinds, but the unforeseen challenge of the day was the last 20km.  It was a mining access road with a loose surface and a long gradual climb.  As we progressed up this road the surrounding mountains closed in around us until we found ourselves riding through a spectacular slot canyon barely wide enough for our support vehicles to pass.  Our destination, El Higuero, at least that’s what I think it’s called; there were certainly no welcome signs.  It’s a ghost town, leftover from the mining boom 80 years ago.  The southern end of which had been buried by landslide.  What remains are a few roofless houses of dry stone or adobe walls, a plethora of rusty tin artifacts and a cemetery.  Perhaps the creepiest cemetery I have ever visited.  Most of the graves had been desecrated and broken open, skulls and human bones scattering the ground.  I can’t imagine that many gringos have ever set foot in this place let alone pitched a tent and spent the night.

Our third day was perhaps the most challenging day of the tour so far; over 2000m of vertical climbing on very rough roads.  But what goes up must come down.  Our support vehicle had to detour because the switchbacks were tighter than its turning radius.  Once again two wheels prove to be superior.  Navigation was not easy either as there were many dead end forks leading to remote communities or new mining developments.  And of course, the smooth road is never the right road.  As we descended back towards the ocean we rejoined the pavement for the last 25 km only to be hit in the face with a gale force headwind all the way to our picturesque beach camp.  What a day!  But this group seems to thrive on the challenge, invigorated by facing the elements.  

Yesterday was a long stretch beginning along the coast and gradually moving inland passing some bizarre geologic formations.  We have now entered the true Atacama Desert, the driest place on earth, yet ironically situated on the shore of the Pacific Ocean, the largest body of water on earth.  Today we rest in Caldera a quaint port famous for smuggling weapons into this region during the war of the pacific.   But a hot shower, a good night’s sleep, some delicious fish, a fine glass of wine and an internet café makes this stop more than luxurious.

From here we will continue along the coast to Antofagasta, where we turn inland and begin our acclimatization for the Altiplano where we will face extremely harsh conditions; altitudes of 4800m, subzero temperatures, lack of food and water supplies, blistering sun and relentless winds.  Vuelta…

Posted September 29, 2009 by Randy Pielsticker
Chile | Tour Updates
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Mudfest



So who pissed off the weather gods?   I knew that the road north of Carlos Pellegrini would only be passable if it was dry.  On the original scout I got stuck in the mud, lost one of my shoes and had to wait for two hours at a nearby farm for the men to return from working the fields so they could pull me out with their tractor.  But five days ago I returned to the infamous hwy 40, to check it out while scouting a new route through the Missiones province in Northern Argentina.  The road was smooth and hard-packed, in fact the sun-baked clay was probably a faster surface than some of the paved roads we’ve travelled.

The new route was incredible.  From Foz we travelled to Eldorado, 25 de Mayo and Itacaruare, none of which are real tourist destinations but as a cycling route it was a beautiful linkage.  It wasn’t flat but no lung burners and the rural countryside was spectacular.  We rolled through agricultural villages and along the shores of the Rio Uruguay.  For the first 3 days it was sunshine, blacktop and tailwinds.  Our campsites were nothing fancy, but the warm showers, green grass and cooking shelters were all the luxuries we needed.  And our hosts were all friendly and hospitable.  In these small towns the locals get so excited to have an adventurous group of gringos share their home for an evening.

On day 4 things changed, the weather changed, the two short sections of dirt tracks had dissolved with the torrents of the early morn.  The mud-fest was anticipated but this was not mud.  The clay adhered to everything.  Upon completion of the stage one rider asked, “does anyone know how much Argentina weighs? … just pick up my bike cuz I’ve been carrying half the country for the last 35km”, as he smiled I noticed there was even dirt in his teeth.  Brakes stopped working, but it didn’t matter because your wheel wouldn’t spin anyways.  Shades became mudguards and the myriad of colourful spandex all took on the same shade of ochre.

Miles and I were desperately trying to find a more sheltered alternate to our intended swamp camp and the day just kept getting weirder and weirder.  At one point we were debating squatters rights with a local vagrant at an abandoned schoolhouse and next we were being warned about highway 40 from a gas station attendant when an emu walked out from behind the pumps and stared us down.  I’m disappointed that we did not make it to ibera park but the clients were thankful for the dry accommodations here in Mercedes.

Things are not getting any easier.  Tomorrow will be the longest stage of the tour so far, 176km and the forecast is for headwind.  Soon we will enter Uruguay and then take a boat from Colonia to Buenos Aires for some well deserved days of rest.  B.A. is one of the most metropolitan cities on this continent.  We will have a few days to enjoy the food, art, music, shopping and maybe even time for a tango lesson.

Posted August 20, 2009 by Randy Pielsticker
Argentina | Tour Updates
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Sunshine


Henry and the Brazilians

We had sunshine just long enough for us to make a photo shoot at the Praia do Diablo our starting line.  That was the last time I saw the sun.  Seven days of rain.  Not just drizzle; we had one 48 hour stretch where it was consistent driving rain.  Pitching your tent in the rain and keeping it dry is not an easy skill.    Everything we owned was drenched.  Drying my gear was an impossibility and I realized that if this weather persisted I soon run out of clean dry cycling clothes. 

So I gave up, each morning I would cringe as I tried to pull on my cold, wet, sandy gear, then frantically jump around for five minutes trying to warm it up.  To endure such condition in the first week of a 5 month tour has certainly tested the integrity of this group.  Yet they manage to grin and bear it, their spirits are high, but the cachaca (local cane spirits) might have something to do with that.
 

Yesterday we rode the length of Ihla Comprida, a giant sand bar island.  Although it was not raining it was an over cast morning.  The first 13km of the day were along a smooth paved road.  When the blacktop ended there were a few km’s of rough, flooded corrugations to lead to the beach.  The beach is an official road, they actually run buses on it.  I waited at the beginning of the beach ride for the last of the cyclists to catch up.  Sitting there I watched a fast moving frontal cloud bearing down on me.  Pulling out my rain gear I was preparing for the worst.  The wind accelerated to gale force, blowing right in the face of cyclists who were ahead.  But the front did not bring rain, it actually blew it away.  As I started riding down the 35km stretch of beach the wind subsided, then it did a u-turn and the sun came out.  The next thing I knew I was riding through the surf with waves crashing through my spokes and I could not remove the giant shit eating grin from my face as I sang at the top of my lungs “I can see clearly now the rain has gone…  its gonna be a bright sun shiny day”.  It was the shortest stage of the tour at 54km but certainly a memorable one.  Any other beach of this caliber would be developed with condos, restaurants and night clubs, but not here.  This place was pristine, just a few fishermen and a joyous group of soggy cyclists.  At the end of the beach we boarded the ferry to Cananeia.
 

Our second rest day here in Cananeia was much needed, not only to recuperate but also to dry out all our equipment.  This village was one of the first ports of call for the Portuguese explorers nearly 500 years ago.  In the historic centro there are still some buildings remaining from that era.  There is a legend of the “Bachelor of Cananeia” who was a convict who escaped from one of the colonial ships centuries ago and proclaimed himself a king amongst the indigenous populations, no one is sure what happened to him.
But whether it’s the history that intrigues you or the fine seafood that satisfies you this is one of the hidden gems of Brazil. 
 

Last night we had Barbeque provided by our local guides Talita and Cristiano, but today everyone is busy preparing for the next stretch of riding.  Eight days to take us inland through the rolling hills and agricultural regions until we reach Foz do Iguacu, where the hundreds of cascades create the world’s most spectacular waterfall.

Posted August 03, 2009 by Randy Pielsticker
Brazil
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Weather or not?

It was in 2005 when I first pitched the idea to Henry to run a bike tour in South America.  But the original concept was to ride from Gros Morne Park in Newfoundland and end here in Brazil for carnival.  After much refinement, research, planning and a bit of a reality check, the Vuelta Sudamericana rolled out of Rio de Janeiro last Sunday en route to arrive in Quito 134 days and 12,500km later.  It still seems somewhat surreal.

Enjoying our first rest day in Sao Sebastiao a deafening crack of thunder interrupts my chain of thoughts.  As I look out from my balcony to see the rain creeping across the channel to Ihlabela and I run to grab my desperately drying tent from the clothesline below.  In the first three days this group of 25 cyclists and staff have pedaled 426km and climbed over 2800m of elevation rolling along a spectacular coastal highway of jungle, beaches, islands and fishing villages, but our biggest challenge has been the weather.  I know it’s the rainforest, but come on… we haven’t had a single day without several periods of drizzle and at least one torrential cloud burst. 

If I was in Algonquin right now I’d be praying to Okanda, but I guess I still have a few things to figure out about Brazil.  Even the locals admit that this weather is unseasonal, the rainy season is over.  And in 2008 the rainy season was extremely dry.  When I hear about a cold rainy summer in Muskoka, increased avalanche frequency in BC due to snowpack instability or intense tropical storms that swamp coastal cities I revisit the debate on global warming.  The truth is that weather inconsistency is becoming far more obvious than the subtle annual increase in average centigrade.  Seasons no longer have a trend.  But the question that remains is weather or not this is a response to anthropogenic activities or just a natural change in evolution of Gaia.  Perhaps the TDA Foundation’s goal to achieve carbon neutrality is more than just jumping on the green bandwagon; it’s an investment in the future… for everyone. 


The days leading up to any of our epic tours are always busy, but launching a new project is sheer pandemonium.  The last week in Rio was a blitz of shopping sprees, welding bike racks and trying to figure out where to find 3000 energy bars and 1200L of electrolytes without paying the gringo price.  The group is still forming, but it’s truly dynamic.  At camp people speak to each other in French, German, Spanish, English and we all struggle with Portuguese.  There is a good mix of experience and those who are still green.  The starting line was an opportunity to reunite with some old friends and meet the newcomers.  A sense of community amongst us is essential to the success of the tour and the foundation has already been set.  Every person here is making positive contributions to the greater good of the group, the staff are hard working and the clients are quick to help with loading bags, fixing bikes and most importantly supporting each other through the daily challenges.  The first three days have been very difficult, to be honest I was concerned that they may be too hard for being so early in the tour.  But together they have faced the rains, the winds, the hills and all achieved their personal best.  A fantastic start.


The next four riding stages take us through Guaruja, the holiday destination for the rich Paulistas, day two we pass a crazy festival in Iguape, then we have a series ferry boats to take us island hopping until Cananeia which was one of the first ports of call for the Portuguese colonialists, where we will spend our next rest day.
 

Posted July 30, 2009 by Randy Pielsticker
Brazil | Tour Updates
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Roller Coaster Ride



This is the vertical profile of the route from Cuzco to Paracas in Peru.  The horizontal axis represents distance in Km’s and the vertical axis represents the elevation in m’s.  As you can see these climbs are bigger than the Blue Nile Gorge in Ethiopia, at a higher altitude and there are two of them consecutively.  Cuzco is at km 0 on this chart and Nazca is at km 655 where the curve begins to flatten out. The 70 km descent into Nazca is gonna be fucking wicked!  This 655 km stretch will probably be the most challenging stretch of the tour
  If you would like to join us for this incredible roller-coaster ride, you can do so by registering for the 'Gringo Trail' section of the 2009 Vuelta Sudamericana.

Posted July 02, 2009 by Randy Pielsticker
General | Race Updates
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The Missing Link



As I continue to retrace my steps through the Vuelta route, I keep meeting other cyclists.  They are all riding a variety of different routes for equally different purposes.  Ironically, regardless of their direction of travel or objectives, they all seem to complain about the wind.  Befriending them by servicing their bikes, or sharing a meal I keep hoping to get the inside tip on some incredible roads to ride, but I end up disappointed every time.  Most are travelling the panamerican highway or other major roads.  There is nothing like the freedom of exploring a foreign land completely self supported on your bike, however I realize the true advantage to the support that our expeditions offer.  It allows us to get off the beaten path and to explore the back roads and hidden gems of these fascinating continents. It took me 3 days of scouting to find what I call the “missing link”.    North of La Serena, Chile there is a small town called Puento Choros.  Its nothing more than a coastal village with a few accommodations, two restaurants and a soccer pitch.  The people there are mostly fishermen who subsidize their income by taking tourists on sightseeing tours of the penguin and sea lion colonies or the whales during migration.  According to maps the roads end in this town, but google earth would beg to differ.  I had to work the route from both directions before I could map out the connecting route. Although the distances will be short to accommodate for the terrain, it will take us two days to reach Huasco the next town along the coast.  The night in between we will spend in El Higuero, a ghost town nestled into a remote slot canyon.  I believe it was a mining settlement but the western end was buried by a landslide, what remains are several buildings without roofs, a couple goats, a cemetery and an intricate system of relic dry stone walls.  From there the road gets pretty hairy.  Its not flat, but there are no monster climbs, however the switchbacks crossing the pass are so tight that our big support truck will not be able to cross, it will have to do a u-turn and detour around. A challenging ride for sure, in fact it may be the most technically demanding two riding days of any of our expeditions.  Greater the challenge, greater the reward.  This route traverses some incredible coastal dessert and canyon terrain, the scenery is spectacular.  And other than some recent mining developments this territory would appear to be untraveled by anyone in a long time.  Beating your own path is the best way to get off the beaten path. 

Posted June 10, 2009 by Randy Pielsticker
General | Race Updates
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San Pedro de Atacama

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From the original scout there have been several minor revisions to the route.  San Pedro de Atacama is a new addition and certainly a new highlight of the tour.  The scenery here is as hallucinogenic as the cover of a Yes album cover.  Whether you are an astronomer, archaeologist, geologist, adrenalin junkie or just enjoy sipping the finest cappuccino in a shady adobe café, this desert oasis will make for a fantastic rest stop. Smoldering volcanoes tower over this tourism mecca.  The dusty cobbled streets are lined with restaurants and cafes that prepare a variety of local and international delicacies.  Looking down the alleyways reveals a myriad of colour as the local artisans pawn their handicrafts and alpaca garments, yet the main plaza is cooled by the shade of mature trees.  Bordering the plaza is a post card perfect quaint little church.  Local tour operators host a range of day trips including sand boarding, climbing an active volcano, visiting the steaming geysers, soaking the buoyant waters of a salt pan lake, or touring through the incredible sedimentary and aeolian formations of the Valle de Luna.  The climatic conditions here provide for some of the best star gazing in the world.  What a crazy place! Historically this town was just a pit stop on the trading route between the highlands and the coast.  It became established when it was visited by Pedro de Valdivia in 1540.  A complex irrigation system sourced from ground water supports local agriculture and some farmers today are still using terraces that are over 1000 years old.  Tourism is the main economic input these days.  In fact when I arrived I had to ask five different people for directions because the first four were all tourists.  This will be our first exposure to life on the Altiplano, not a bad start.   

Posted May 26, 2009 by Randy Pielsticker
News Briefs | Ramblings
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Biking in Quito

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Sunday May 3rd, marked the sixth anniversary of the Ciclopaseo.  Originally it would take place on the last Sunday of each month, but at the anniversary celebration last week the Mayor, Andres Vallejo, announced it will now happen every Sunday. The event was originally designed to promote the use of the bicycle as a means of public transport in the city of Quito, where the main avenue, Rio Amazonas, is closed to motorized traffic between the airport and the plaza in the Old Town, almost 30km of road.  But the effect has been that the road has been given back to the people.  It’s not just cyclists; rollerbladers, baby carriages, skateboarders, joggers, pedestrians, vendors, street performers and even marching bands are participating in the enjoyment of a car free zone in the heart of the city centre. The event has been coordinated by Diego Puente, founder of Ciclopolis, a politically active organization for cycle advocacy and environmental protection.  Their other projects include an “earn a bike program” for underprivileged children, women specific cycling classes, rental bikes, cultural bike tours and installation of bike racks throughout the city.  The Ciclopaseo is extremely well organized with hundreds of police and volunteers at each intersection directing traffic, there are water stations and bike repair stations every few kilometers.  Recreation improves the health of the people, eliminating fossil fuel emissions reduces urban smog, but most importantly it’s a lot of fun. Every city in the world could benefit from the model they have created here. On Sunday Dec 6th, after cycling nearly 13,000km, from Rio de Janeiro, the inaugural expedition of the Vuelta Sudamericana will roll into Quito.  The finish line for this 134 day cycling adventure will be at the Arc in El Ejido Park.  After exploring the South American continent by bike, these intrepid cyclists will be welcomed and congratulated by all the non motorized enthusiasts at the Ciclopaseo.  

Posted May 12, 2009 by Randy Pielsticker
News Briefs | Ramblings
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Scouting Fun on the Altiplano

There are some big problems in Bolivia. We had been following a 500km stretch of brutal roads that skirt the southern boundary of the Salar - a 350km wide salt pan, a vast iodized landscape. There are no real roads once you enter the area – mainly you just navigate by compass. When we asked for directions, we received various renditions of, “from here, you just following the rail line, then head north”.  The trail along the rail tracks turned out to be decent; corrugated at times, sometimes braided, but there were no turns to the north. We were worried about crossing the flats before dark! Then we ran into pits of “chusca”, knee deep dust that blanketed the underlying rocks and potholes. The railway was now off in the distance but we managed to over-take the silhouette of a lumbering freight on the horizon. Each time we plunged into a depression, the chusca erupted, temporarily blocking out the sun. The truck bottomed out several times. Once again the road turned up and over the tracks. WHAM! Dead stop. The engine was instantly louder. I put it in reverse, the wheels spinning. I put it first gear, the wheels spinning. I looked to the horizon to see the headlight of the approaching freight train, superimposed beside the red, setting sun. We were completely T-boned on the tracks, all four wheels in the air. And the train kept coming. We weighted the back end, pulled up on the front bumper and managed to get a bit of traction in reverse. Wham! Dead stop. The headlight was getting closer, like some bad Hollywood movie. Finally, we got the truck off just in time but I burnt my hand in the process. I had to get the exhaust welded back together in the next town, Uyuni. No real damage and a cheap fix. We made it to La Paz, which is a fabulous city and continued on to Peru, back on schedule. More problems! The border was closed and there were tons of people protesting and throwing rocks at any vehicle travelling to the border town of Desaguadero. It seems to be a volatile area - last week a bunch of locals broke into a jail in a village near Copacabana and burned 11 prisoners alive. We made a big U-turn and headed back to Arica, Chile and crossed into Peru from there.

Posted November 27, 2008 by Randy Pielsticker
News Briefs
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