We left Rio de Janeiro on July 26th and today 134 days later we have arrived in beautiful downtown Quito. And what a ride it has been. Day after day of visual and sensual stimulation and a sense of great satisfaction, the type one experiences when one uses extreme exertion. Today was another example of this. We started the day in a small place called Papallacta, at elevation of about 3,300 meters known for its hot springs and spas which many of the riders enjoyed yesterday, and then we had to climb the Papallacta Pass located at an elevation of 4,064 meter (oh, just another climb over 4,000m). Then it was turn for maddening descent (rather cold) and then another ascent of 600m before we found ourselves on the street of Quito enjoying the last few km on Avenues of Rio Amozonas one of the main streets closed to motorized traffic every Sunday.  (Toronto, the place I live, will you ever have such a street?)

And so the inaugural Vuelta Sudamericana has come to an end. Like our other Epic Tours this one has accomplished what its set up to do and that is to cross a continent on a bike, to experience a continent only the way a person can, while cycling and feeling every inch using his or hers own power, feeling the sun, the wind and the rain. And now that we have done it, we have a unique feeling for this continent, for the seven countries we have cycled through, for the pulse and the beat of these places. What joy, what a way to spend 134 days.

Yesterday afternoon this SMS message came in from Quito, Ecuador to the Tour d'Afrique staff in Toronto:

"After 12000km 95000m of vertical climbing and 134 days of cycling thru 7 south American countries we finally crossed the finish line and we were only 2 min late. Can't decide what I want more right now sleep or rum."

Congratulations to all the participants and staff in the inaugural Vuelta Sudamericana. Well done, and safe travels home after your amazing journey!

A full report is coming soon from the finish line, stay tuned...

Since our last rest day in Loha it has been one great ride after another. Some mornings while cycling on a newly paved road with hardly any traffic, luscious green forests covering the montains and valleys, interrupted by small villages and towns where you can buy a cold drink, intermixed with fast moving river and waterfalls in which you can take a dip to cool yourself a bit, on those mornings as you cycle you can't help but feel that the world was created just for you, just so you could experience those moments.


Yes, Ecuador is pretty, certainly the route we have taken. But in three more days all this will be a memory as we reach Quito and return home to our normal lives. The Epic Vuelta is coming to an end. 

We have arrived in Macara, Ecuador - our final country. Upon crossing the border, the first sign we saw was - Quito 868km. After 11,000km what is 858 give or take a few as we are not taking the most direct route.

Today was a lovely 60km ride on a great newly paved road, little traffic and great scenery. The crossing was the type many Canadians remember wistfully from the past between Canada and US. Friendly, quick and polite. Oh those were the days.

Yesterday I wrote that I wish I was a better writer or a poet in order to describe our month in Peru, today while cycling I wish I was a naturalist or even a bird watcher so I could describe the plants and trees that we saw today like the similarly looking Baobab tree that we see in Southern Africa - except this is not baobab. It just looks like a young baobab. Or the many beautiful birds I saw today, whose names I do not know or the colorful lizard we saw at lunch three days ago.
But alas, I am not a poet, nor a birdwatcher and certainly not a natuarlist.

So this will have to do.

We have reached Las Lomas our last stop in Peru. Tomorrow we enter our seventh and last country of the Vuelta Sudamericana Tour. We spend more than a month in Peru and have memories to last a lifetime. Cusco, Titicaca, Machu Pichu, Nazca, Lima, the Altiplano, Huarez, Canion Del Pato, Chan Chan, the Incas and Chimus sites, wonderful valleys, haunting deserts, amazing descents and spectacular climbs. To do justice, each day should be described by a better writer or better yet a poet than can capture not only what eyes can see and what the skins feels, but also what the soul feels, talents that I unfortunately do not posses.    

What I do posses right now, what I do feel right now is a great sense of joy and accomplishments that comes when you have done something extraordinary, something uplifting, something that whenever someone mentions Peru, I will have that secret smile that will say, Yes, I have felt it in my soul.

Since leaving Cusco, it´s been tough! We've been cycling well over 3000m and 4000m reaching our peak of 4600m. We have camped alongside altiplano lakes where the temperatures have dropped below zero and there have been up to 4 days with no showers! So I find myself in Lima, initially shocked by the traffic, grime and size of the city, it was an easy decision to check in to a grand old colonial hotel, enjoy a G&T with ice (without thinking I would get sick), and a comfortable taxi ride to the San Isidro area. I enjoyed a delicious sushi meal (London standards) washed down with a chilled chardonnay, and followed by a session at a hair and nail salon, I feel like I deserve it!! So one might say but that is not the real Peru! Well we have been immersed in the rural life of Peruvians for 2 weeks and I am quite enjoying some western comforts right now! Dammit!

So less about my indulgences and more about the riding in Peru - the ups and downs!

We climbed out of Cusco and cycled through farmland, overtaking pigs being herded on the road, and enjoyed a stunning scenic descent with a brief stop for lunch and then dropping over 1000m into a wall of heat in an isolated river canyon. After crossing the Apurimac river (for the first time) we climbed a further 1000m to our basic hotel (bucket of cold water for a bath).... a tough day with hills, heat and a huge feeling of accomplishment to finish the full 130kms!

The trend continued with ascents of over 1000m, a summit of 4000m (pity the view from the summit was cloudy) and a cool descent through mist and clouds, extremities of hands and feet frozen, and then peeling off layers of clothes at lunch in the sunshine. A further ascent in the afternoon was a gradual and relaxing ride up river (crossing that Apurimac river several times) and a green campsite and cold beer to greet us at the end of the day!
We continued cycling upriver, it felt like a casual ride enjoying the canyon and river, a langorous lunch and stop in one of the larger villages for refreshments. We escaped the worst of a storm, riding through rain for about 10kms, whilst other cyclists had rail, hail and sleet! It was chilling but with a climb ahead, we were soon warm. Camp was at a Toll booth where the guards challenged us to a game of volleyball (closing the one lane in the process) which detracted from the horrendous litter and cold of the exposed camp at 3500m.



One of the most rewarding days for most of the riders was a horrendous day for me. I was motivated and feeling strong, but a few kms into the 14km climb to 4300m, I was exhausted, stopping many times to get my breath, take photos and it was hard to push out the negative thoughts knowing the day ahead had plenty more climbs. I was determined to overcome the exhaustion and after the monster climb we had rolling hills, reaching our peak of tour at 4600m (earlier riders got a taste of whisky left by the crew to celebrate). It felt like the longest and hardest morning and after crawling into lunch late, I called it a day, missing out on further peaks but also strong headwinds in the afternoon. The reward was a stunning campsite next to some lakes at 4400m - there wasnt going to be any relief and disturbed sleep from the altitude - and only stunning once the wind died down, and the flamingoes appeared at sunset. It was also bitterly cold with frost on our tents in the morning!
Our route continued past lakes, descending over 1000m in 50km which entailed some amazing switchbacks, down a scenic river valley and then the road climbed up again - I enjoyed the afternoon section from the truck not wanting to relive the previous days experience - quit while you're ahead was my philosophy! An overnight stop overlooking the valley with vicunas grazing in the distance was peaceful and beautiful unitl the road work vehicles parked next to our tents!
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The next day we descended from 4200m down to Nazca at 600m - an awesome day of cycling (okay, cruising) with farmland, desert and river valleys, stopping at times to look out over the clouds with mountains peaking above them. The fertile Nazca valley and petroglyphs were our reward - best viewed in Cessna 6 seater and then rest at the Nazca Lines hotel pool for the rest of the afternoon! Tough life!



The Nazca to Lima stretch took us back to the Pacific Coast, first passing the Nazca lines (not so easily appreciated at ground level), fertile valley, desert mountain crossing and Pisco grape growing regions. The actual coastline is barren desert terrain, and quite polluted with rubbish dumped on the side of the road, an unidentified smell I call dead dog (sad but true), and an unbelievable number of chicken farms, hence the Peruvian speciality - Pollo y Fritas (Chicken and chips - good healthy grub, unlikely to give you any stomach bugs!)
We stayed at some beautiful places - Paracas - a nature reserve where you can appreciate marine life from boat trips (I was saving myself for Galapagos).

Cerro Azul - rather depressing in rainy conditions but we were treated to a delicious fish bbq and prawn and salsa dinner by resident chef, Miles ably assisted by Hatitia and Alfonso, followed by a few Pisco sours (Peruvian national drink) in town at the smallest bar in the world (well, in my limited experience of bars)! Pucusana was a welcome sight after the dusty, dirty highway ride, a colourful fishing village where we enjoyed fresh ceviche (another Peruvian speciality and so fresh our stomachs would be safe) on the docks!

And then Lima, where I started this epistle and where I choose to experience the wealthy Peru life - shopping, restaurants and even a bit of salsa!!!

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Posted By Natasha Barker

There is only one way to know the taste of something, and as every small baby knows, that’s by sticking whatever the curiosity may be directly into your mouth and hoping for the best, which on a side note, explains why if babies could write, they would make our societies best, and least pre-judgmental food writers.

 

This somehow applies to a first experience eating Cuy, the specialty of Peru.  Sometime ago between the cities of Cuzco and Nazca, in a deep valley we camped along a river where a Peruvian of Italian descent lived with his family.  His home straddled a small agricultural plot, and possessed a dark room full of white and beige spotted Guinea Pigs.  Outside of their home they had an adobe, wood burning oven whose embers glowed with warmth and whose cavernous belly called out for a feast to be born within.   

Our host, lacking nothing in hospitality, approached 4 of the fattest Guinea Pigs, and readily prepared them for cooking.  The process involving a quick end to their short lives, skinning, bleeding, seasoning and, well, that’s about it, no dismemberment, even the little teeth get included in the roasting process.  If there is any issue with eating Guinea Pig from a foreigners standpoint, it’s probably that Guinea Pigs are kind of cute, but don’t worry, once skinned and gutted they really aren’t very cute anymore, however another issue arises which is that they suddenly look extremely similar to a rat.  Anyway, who’s to say one rodent is better than another…

 

Sitting on the porch of our home for the night, spotting vultures high up in the hot valley air, sipping the local beer and contemplating the little sand bugs biting my legs, our host then arrived with the finished product, a glazed, petrified looking version of the previous furry beast.  With a calm smile he broke off a leg, so tenderly cooked that it appeared to detach of its own will, and handed me the prized morsel.  Delicately gripping the little femur, and smelling the beautiful roasted meat smell, I took a hearty bite of muscle, fat and crispy skin…  Salty, high fat content, easy to chew and calling for one to use their teeth to grab all the little bits of meat left on the bone… yummy.  Safe to say that foreigners pre-conceptions of eating such an animal, similar say, to eating a dog perhaps, are misguided. 

 

Too many of us have lost all touch with what we eat.  Let us stare deep into the eyes of a steer and pet its neck before going to eat at our neighbor’s long weekend barbecue, go feed your goldfish before having an all you can eat salmon sushi night, or at the least attempt to eat an animal that still holds some resemblance to it’s original state (a whole quail perhaps, or a full trout)

 

Anyway, Guinea Pig is a fine animal, and a Peruvian specialty, but from what I have been reading of late, a meatless, nut-based diet may be the only hope for the future of humankinds sustainable food supply.  So as much as I love it, I’m done with Guinea Pig, but like a satiated baby with greasy fingers, I’m happy I stuck it in my mouth.

The section between Cusco and Lima is called the Gringo Trail. I questioned Randy about the name and he gave me a very simple answer (That is where all the gringos go). Peru is the most touristy of all the countries and they go to Puno to see lake titicaca, Cusco for Machu Pichu and they also end up where we are now in Nazca to see the Nazca lines. They also go to Lima which is where we will be in in a week from now. While we do go to most of the places where all the gringos go, we spend most of our time in the space between.

The 6 day stretch from Cusco to Nazca is a half day bus ride for most tourists. The extra time means that we see these parts in unusual detail. Interactions with shopowners in small towns, seeing the animals along the route, cycling up beautiful mountains and along rivers are important parts of our experience. We camp in the desert at high altitudes where temperatures are well below freezing and during the day scorching hot. Along the route we play in a game of volleyball at a tollbooth and are invited to play soccer by the local kids of negro mayo. Experiences few have while travelling.

When we pass through small towns along the gringo trail, the kids always yell Gringo!! It isnt because they are welcoming us to their section of the gringo trail. The gringos who usually pass through are hidden on a bus. We are out in the open and these are likely the only times they have ever seen white people passing on a bicycle. A  mystery and a miracle to them. Sometimes I like to suprise them and yell Gringo as I pass through. They look at me upset like why did you steal my line.

In Puno, Cusco or Nazca you arent going to be called a gringo. Many of the local people have set up their lives to accomodate the gringos and attract their money. So being called a gringo on the gringo trails means you are doing something new. I think of it as a reminder of the challenge of the journey...a type of travelling few ever have done before on this trail.

  -  Ryan Stotland

The route from Puno to Cusco followed a spectacular river valley, with several groups of pink flamingoes, surrounded by mountains that influenced the weather with build up of thunder clouds that often threatened our path and storms and showers in the distance.



Typical of weather pattern in the altiplano region was clear and warm in the morning and then short torrential downpours in the afternoon. We were heading into rainy season where downpours were brief and drenching as opposed to our day long miserable drizzle and rain in Brasil! We had 3 days cycling 400km to Cusco and the first day brought the typical weather, farmland scenes and distant snowcapped mountains. We stayed in Ayaviri, a small industrial market town with a beautiful cathedral and plaza. Unfortunately it was where I caught a bad case of gastro, so I had to enjoy the next 2 days in a sleepy haze in the truck and missed out on 2 stunning cycling days - some long gradual climbs to 4350m, rolling hills, Inca ruins and traditional villages. It was still stunning as we wizzed past in the truck but not the same feeling with sun on your back and wind in your face, seeing expressions on local faces and smelling fresh mountainous air! There will be more cycling days like these, most important was to get well for Cusco, gourmet, I mean Inca capital of South America and our 2 day Macchu Picchu trip!

 

Cusco is a fabulous city, whilst the centre is touristy, it is also also beautiful, our hostel has great views over tiled roofs down to main plaza with beautiful church, cathedral and historical buildings. There are some fantastic restaurants, great shopping and good museums although I didnt quite get to the museums! We had 3 rest days in Cusco, the first day was spent walking around the town, enjoying the architecture, cobbled streets, some shopping, mostly just looking and a relaxing lunch.

I then took a 2 day trip to Macchu Piccu "The Lost City of the Incas" with 8 other cyclists from the group. Our trip took us through the scenic Sacred Valley, stopping at a llama farm and textile centre, archaelogical sites of Pisac and Ollantaytambo, and stop for lunch at Urubamba.



The stunning train ride from Ollantaytambo took 1.5hours through the Vilcanote River Valley with stunning views of the river, towering mountains and rain forest.



Arriving in Aquas Caliente, the base from which Macchu Picchu is visited, which is known for its hot springs, and otherwise is filled with hotels, restaurants and shops. We had an early departure in the morning to catch 5.30am bus up to the Macchu Picchu site, the bus snakes up the mountain with the rain forest below and the mountains towering around and as you ascend, you feel you are heading for the clouds. There are many visitors obscuring ones views but this doesnt take away from the impressive Inca site. Built in 15th Century by the Incas for purposes not confirmed (several theories refer to agricultural testing, religious or prison site) and not discovered and hence plundered by the Spanish, but left for rain forest to cover it. Whilst previous explorers came across it, it was brought to the world's attention by American historian Hiram Bingham in 1911. We spent the morning wandering around the ruins and then hiked up Huayna Picchu for some more impressive views of the site. I had always wanted to do the Inca trail and visit Macchu Picchu, and whilst I did not have the time to do the 4 day trail this visit, I now feel more inspired and eager to hike this beautiful region and country and I am certain that Macchu Picchu would be as impressive on a second visit!



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Posted By Natasha Barker aka Tiffy to Tiffy's Travel at 10/29/2009 08:20:00 AM