Tour d'Afrique Ltd. | Blog for Orient Express, News, Updates

Istanbul!

a well deserved drink at the end of the tour

The Orient Express has arrived in Istanbul! After almost 4000 km and 50 days together our crossing of Europe from west to east is complete!

The last week of our adventure had some superb highlights such as the Black Sea coast of Bulgaria, a very unique “Hospital Hotel” in Malko Tarnovo, the first road signs pointing towards Istanbul, a festival ongoing in our rest-day town of Vize, Turkey where everyone enjoyed the local hospitality and were able to get used to the tranquil pace of small town Turkish life.

The last days of the tour were not without the similar challenges of hills and heat but these Orient Express cyclists are hardened athletes by this point in time and managed to complete each day with relative ease, and excitement at being so close to the finish line.

Our last day of riding took us to the edge of the Marmara Sea. There we relaxed, put our bikes aside and sat together to watch a slide show of images from the last 2 months. The next day, after a short transfer to Istanbul, we hit the town and enjoyed our farewell dinner together in the heart of the city where too many restaurants, bars, cafes and music venues await the curious soul.

Hats off to all our participants who made the Tour a success; with their ambitious goal of crossing a continent, their stamina to achieve it, their ability to adapt to the varying cultures/climates/conditions along the way, and most of all for their support of each other which of course in the end is what makes any journey a success. Congratulations and keep on cycling!

Final photos from the tour are now online here!

Posted July 26, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Tour Updates | Turkey

Heat wave

There were days in the beginning of the Orient Express when it seemed it would never stop raining. Well, it did. Now we have a seemingly endless stretch of sunny hot days. Of course this makes us yearn for the cool overcast days of Western Europe.

There is one place though where the heat is much appreciated, and that is in the Black Sea Resort town of Varna, Bulgaria. It’s our second oasis destination since leaving Bucharest. The first is the amazing locale of Rousse where we stay right on the Danube river at the Hotel Luliaka. The pool was well used by our cyclists and many locals enjoying a lazy Friday. It’s fascinating to see the Danube again after last crossing it in Budapest. The river is more wild as it travels in between Bulgaria and Romania, with it’s sandy shores directly merging into the thick foliage and trees.

From Rousse it was two hard days of cycling on roads that cover too many gradual hills to count; many described these days as being “solid”. It’s the point in the trip where Istanbul seems very close but each day of cycling still presents it’s own challenges. On arriving in Varna the Black Sea calls out to be swam in, its warm and calm waters in the summer are idyllic. The beach is certainly crowded and a bit chaotic but in this high season of summer travel it’s to be expected.

The road ahead will take us south on the Black Sea coast and then into Turkey and our final rest day in Vize. Despite the heat and the hills we’ll all try to savor these last days on our adventurous crossing of Europe!

Posted July 19, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Bulgaria | Tour Updates | Turkey

Not so easy!

There are easy days and not so easy days. The stretch of cycling from Alba Iulia to Bucharest definitely falls into the not so easy days. Each and every person on the Orient Express was tested at some point in what unfolded as a very epic stretch. Between the distances, road conditions and heat there were some very tired bodies moving slowly through the camps each evening.

It was also our most adventurous section and one that will certainly remain in the memories of those who partook. Our first day out of Alba Iulia was the longest of the tour at about 150km, including a rough dirt stretch at the very end. For many this was the longest they’d ever cycled.

The day over the Transfaragas pass allowed riders to test their ability on a 30km climb. This year by chance a top level cycling race was going on at the same time so our participants got to see the pros in action cruising up the climb. Another new feature this year was staying at the top of the mountain pass at 2000metres. Our cabana was quite comfortable and the mountain air was indescribably refreshing after the persistent heat of the last week.

The descent from the top of the Carpathians is intense with views from the many switchbacks to the valley below, not that someone cycling 50km per/hour can really take their eyes off the bumpy roads too often to see. Many of the cyclists stopped in at Vlad the Impalers castle. The castle itself has deteriorated over the ages but the view from its’ hilltop perch is stunning and the imagination easily wanders to a distant, bloodier time.

Continuing onto Bucharest with still more hills and also higher population and busier roads to deal with we have been fortunate to see many different aspects of Romanian life. It’s a country completely unique to those around it and the Latin flair is much enjoyed.

Tomorrow we leave Bucharest and head towards Bulgaria. Our second last country on the trip. We’ll see the Danube River for the first time since leaving Budapest; who knows, maybe we’ll even jump in for a swim.

Posted July 14, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Romania | Tour Updates

Into Romania

We left Budapest early last Sunday morning, with our two new sectional riders, Wolfgang and Rick, onboard. After 2 rest days in Vienna and 2 in Budapest I think everyone was gung-ho to start a 5-day stretch of cycling.

The first couple days out of Budapest are long and flat with many farm fields to cycle by and more than few bumps/potholes to watch out for on the roads. Our first stop was in Szolnok, which sits on the Tisza River and Zagyva Rivers. This area is what they call the “Great Hungarian Plain” As it was a long day most riders arrived in camp to relax but a few did venture back into town to check out a very peculiar cycle bridge which has been built over the Tisza river; rather than just a straight line across the river the bridge goes this way and that way, enjoying it’s short but profound journey over the rapidly moving water below.

From there we continued to Gyula, Hungary, a town with a very relaxed feel and well known for it’s thermal baths. The day of cycling went smoothly and luckily enough the group enjoyed some pretty nice tailwinds for a large chunk of the day. Entering Romania the next day was much anticipated and lived up to expectations. The locals are curious, outgoing and there is a decent espresso to be found in pretty much every village.

Our last 2 days of cycling into the rest day in Alba Iulia were extraordinary. The roads are starting to get hilly and the scenery is spectacular. Transylvania offers some great climbs and the day into Alba Iulia had one of 12km and another of about 8km. All cyclists reached the top successfully and enjoyed the long downhill and flat roads into town.

The next stretch takes us up and over the Transfagaras Pass, which is a highlight of the trip. A 30km climb into the Carpathian Mountains and then the long twisting descent towards the town of Curtea des Arges. Let’s not forget Vlad the Impalers castle situation on the south side of the mountain pass as well!

Posted July 08, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Hungary | Romania | Tour Updates

Vienna to Budapest

It’s amazing that in just 3 days of cycling you can go from the capital of Austria, to the Slovakian capital of Bratislava and then to the capital of Hungary, Budapest; and that is exactly what we did.

The ride to Bratislava continued along the Danube trail, and the riders were quite quick to finish the stage. Which was great for them as we were staying in the “Botel”, a boat turned hotel permanently anchored on the Danube in Bratislava. From there it was a very short walk into the historical center which is full of restaurants, cafes and shops selling all sorts of traditional knick knacks. After a good nights sleep we headed east for our final stint on the Danube cycle way. As a going away present nature offered us a roaring tailwind for the first 40kms along the river!

On reaching our stop in Komarom, Hungary many riders mentioned the great change in the villages compared to Western Europe. There is the leftover feeling of Soviet times and the extreme neatness of the west has dissipated and something more rustic has appeared. There is a feeling mid-way through the Orient Express that all is suddenly new and for those who have not traveled this part of the world there is much excitement as to what will come next.

Our ride into Budapest was led by the one and only Gergo, our trusty bike mechanic, expert on all that is Hungarian and resident of Budapest. Despite the busier city traffic the cyclists had a fun and safe ride to the hotel. Everyone was also very lucky to see Gergo and his band, Arabesque, play a concert on our rest day here at a very cool local bar. It was great to see everyone out enjoying themselves in this amazing city.

Next up is 5 days of cycling to Alba Iulia, Romania. We still have a few flat days ahead of us crossing the Hungarian plateau, but once we enter Romania the hills begin. As we have still had a fair bit of rain we’re all hoping for some sunshine.

Happy trails.

Posted July 03, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Austria | Hungary | Slovakia | Tour Updates

The end of Classic Europe

Leaving Regensburg we enjoyed one of the shortest days of the Tour. At just 52km it’s only a few pedal strokes to reach Straubing. On a previous visit to this small city, Germanys’ second largest beer festival was ongoing and in town massive tents filled with beer satiated Germans swayed to the raucous tunes inside. This year the town was more laid back and we enjoyed one of our hottest days of the whole trip, this inspired people to either relax around the camp or cycle into town to see what the locals were up to.

After this it was a string of 4 days all around 100km-115km. The majority of each day was spent on the Danube cycle way. As we approached and then entered Austria, our third country of the trip, the banks of the river grow steeper and steeper making the scenery that much more striking. As well the boat traffic picks up considerably with many passenger boats going up and down the river. In fact from Passau, Germany a few of our cyclists decided to take the boat to Linz, Austria. Apparently they had quite an interesting time and enjoyed the different perspective that gliding along the river provides.

Our campsite in Linz is right by a small lake and is usually great for swimming, however the weather was still a bit rainy so it didn’t prove to be a popular option. One incident of note was that as I drove into Austria it was immediately apparent that no stores were open anywhere in the country; this was due to an undetermined holiday. I must say for all the grief Germans (and some Austrians) give the Greeks about not working hard enough and forgetting to pay taxes it seems that every other day in Germany/Austria is a holiday (which I must say is a great idea) Anyways I was told by a German hotel worker that when it isn’t a holiday everyone works at 300% effort, most likely to make up for working 0%, 50% of the time.

We are now in Vienna. As one of the worlds’ great cultural cities you can’t walk for more than 500 metres without bumping into a museum. Today I can report having visiting the Natural History Museum. Let me tell you the giant Wooly Mammoth is kind of scary, once you get over that though you could easily spend a whole day there learning about parasites, caving, ostriches, ancient pottery or space toys from the 1960s’ in no particular order.

After another rest day tomorrow we are off for the beautiful city of Bratislava, where we spend one night before cycling into Hungary the following day… It should be noted we have said goodbye to 4 of our sectional riders at this point. Noah and Laura in Ulm, Germany and just now in Vienna Alf and Evelyn of South Africa. Luckily for us we have 5 more sectional riders joining us here in Vienna and we’re all excited to meet up with them and share the exciting times ahead.

So until then have a great time wherever you are and if you have the opportunity spend a day with friends/family cycling around aimlessly!

p.s. In the last blog I referred to Francois as Francoise. This was a mistake as Francoise is the feminine version of his name. Francois after a few difficult days has forgiven me.

Posted June 27, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Austria | Germany | Tour Updates

Cycling with Bavarians

This is my third time doing the Orient Express trip and each time I find the Bavarian people peculiar, in a very pleasant way of course. It’s the only place in Germany I’ve seen where you can witness someone walking down the street in traditional dress (imagine a costume that blends a classic waitress uniform and a wizards’ robe, minus the spell casting wand) My favorite though is the old German game of “How high can you pull up your pants”, of course with the sturdy suspenders available today the game can become dangerous at times.

Some of the oldest breweries in the world have their home in this German province and the people are more than proud of the fact. Beer is king here and it’s a perfect accompaniment to the local roast pork knuckle. You don’t see so many non-European Tourists in the area but let me tell you there should be, as there are many similarities to other cultures. In some ways it’s like the southern U.S., it would not be shocking at all to see a small wooden raft floating on the Danube with a bunch of banjo players on board.

Back to some news about the ride from Ulm to Regensburg, where we are currently enjoying a rest day in the heart of the old city… We stuck to the Danube cycle way on our first day out of Ulm to Eggelstetten, this day once again provided warm and dry riding conditions. Our meal that night in camp was Ricotta Tortellini with Arugula Pesto and skewered Pork and Beef barbecued on our new gas grill. At camp people compared the distances on their cycle computers, as with the many options available on the trail it seems no two people ever cycle the exact same route, though somehow the distances are usually close to each other.

The next 2 days to Regensburg we decided to leave the Danube for a taste of another of Germanys myriad cycling trails, the Altmuhltal trail. This took us to the very scenic town of Kipfenburg; a UNESCO world heritage site due to the ancient limestone trade which took place in the area. However few riders had the time/energy to explore the town as most of the day was spent in an unseasonably cold rain. Francoise, the fastest Quebec cyclist on Tour, even stopped in a local church to warm his hands over the burning candles inside. The rain didn’t let up till just before dinner and made us all wish we were cycling in a greenhouse.

The day into Regensburg was spent on the Altmuhltal trail until reaching the Danube again in the town of Kelheim and then turning east towards Regensburg. The day went smoothly with some scattered showers but nothing like the downpour of the previous day. Most of the cyclists had dinner in Regensburg with our 2 German guests, Mark and Nadine, who are leaving back to their home in Hamburg later today. Everyone enjoyed a classic Bavarian feast!

Our next stretch is 5 days of cycling to Vienna. There are some great towns on route like Passau, Germany and Linz, Austria. We will stick to the Danube pretty much the whole way. Till then, happy trails.

Posted June 20, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Germany | Tour Updates

Freiburg to Ulm

Well we finally had a day where no one was rained on. It’s been a Tour full of rain showers up till this point but the temperatures are getting warmer and warmer and before long we’ll be longing for the cooler days as we hide in the shade from the sun. Our first day out of Freiburg included a 9km climb that once again everyone tackled with panache. Riding on mostly rural roads with forests and small towns scattered along the route the cyclists arrived at Donaueschigan, which is the location of the Danube Rivers’ source. From here of course is also the start of the “Donauradweg”, the Danube cycle trail.

This is also the point where we begin seeing many other cycle tourists. The main difference is they are carrying panniers with their camping gear, cooking equipment, clothes etc… I heard one of our cyclists mention they felt guilty passing them so quickly, as without the extra weight of carrying gear the journey is much easier, relatively speaking. They didn’t look too serious when they said this though so I’m guessing the feeling doesn’t last long. Regardless of how you cycle the Danube it is a beautiful ride and one every passionate cyclist should do at some point in their lives.

Ulm has been a pleasant stop. Much like Freiburg it is a relaxed city with great restaurants and of course the worlds tallest church steeple. Our hotel is right by the river, the bike path, and a short walk to the center. Hopefully everyone will be feeling well rested and excited for our next stint of 3 days to the city of Regensburg. We’ll be continuing on bike paths for the most part and a few rolling hills along the way.

Posted June 17, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Germany | Tour Updates

Troyes to Freiburg

Sitting in the hotel room looking out the 5^th floor window at the sunny skies and densely forested surroundings of Freiburg it’s not hard to see the beautiful possibilities for cycling in the area. Many years ago I participated in a bicycle stage race here and I remember clearly the steep winding hills and the melodic sound of cowbells ringing in the heavy, foggy weather in the Black Forest. Great memories but I think the part about gasping for oxygen and the pain in my legs seems to have faded.

Luckily our journey out of Freiburg does not include many of those hills (only 1 of 9km; still a big test) after that we will find ourselves on the Danube cycle trail the majority of the time till Bratislava.

Let’s look back at the last few days of cycling on the Orient Express. From Troyes the cyclists did an amazing job of cycling one of the longest days of the Tour at what ended up being 140km. Our resident fast guy Chris Willie was in early, but even the last few riders were into camp with time to spare before dinner.

The last 2 cyclists arrived on different bikes than they’d had the day before. This was due to their bicycles being stolen from the hotels parking garage the previous night. The 2 cyclists in question had an extremely calm and realistic attitude about the situation and I think because of that the issue resolved itself with relative ease. The hotels’ insurance picked up the cost of their new bikes, which were purchased in Troyes that morning, and amazingly by 11:00am they were cycling the days route. Hats off to them!

Our next day to Plombieres les Bains was a whole new route and destination for the Orient Express and one which will be a keeper. The route was on quiet roads through the French countryside and finished with about 15km through a forest alongside a quickly running stream. Plombieres les Bains is a striking town devoted to tourism since the time of Roman occupation; the famed thermal baths have been visited by everyone from Montaigne, Voltaire, and Napoleon Bonaparte to thousands of Europeans seeking solace in the restorative waters. I don’t believe any of our cyclists ventured into the baths but hopefully they enjoyed the town before climbing the few kilometers to our camp overlooking the river valley. Munster was our next destination and this included the climb of the Col de Schluct. About 10km of total climbing spread out over 15kms, it’s a big test and one that every cyclist on the Tour succeeded at. This was followed by a quite chilly descent into

Munster, the city blessed with the famous Munster cheese. It’s easy to notice that this province of Alsace has passed back and forth between Germans and French over the last few centuries. While still in France many store fronts have German names and the architecture is more similar to the towns on the eastern side of the Rhine.

Today we have a rest day in Freiburg and the pace is slow (as it’s Sunday and tomorrow is a holiday) Cyclists are out exploring the town and tasting the local delicacies, the staff is checking out the route from Freiburg for the next day and sorting through other logistics. Hmmm… I think it’s time for a bratwurst and Bavarian beer!

Posted June 12, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
France | Germany | Tour Updates

From the City to the Ferme

Our first night at the Ferme de la Mercy near the town of Chenoise was, as it says in French, at a farm. It’s quite something that just 70 km from Paris you can find yourself sleeping in a tent surrounded by geese, ducks, horses, roosters and everyone’s favorite… a donkey.

As a first night celebration, there was ample brie and French wine on hand and everyone relaxed appropriately and got to know each other a bit better. Mother nature also had a nice welcome as what was the first time tenting for a few people was made extra special by a very large thunderstorm that lasted a couple hours right above our camp.

crooked buildings of Troyes

Our second day to Troyes was a blast, literally, as in one small village there apparently was some kind of riot, with villagers burning tires and demanding something or other, the police directed our riders away from the village and all was peaceful and happy again. Another highlight was the field of pink flowers directly across the road from our lunch spot.

After today’s rest day in the museum like city of Troyes we will be heading out on one of the longer days of the Tour. It’s also our first time on a cycle path so far and it goes around a beautiful lake no less.

Posted June 07, 2011 by Miles MacDonald
France | Tour Updates

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